Showell, Maryland 



HOW I GROW STRAWBERRIES 



I plow the land as early as weather con- 

 ditions will permit after the first of March 

 and mark out the rows 3% feet apart with 

 a potato planter which makes a list slight- 

 ly above the level of the land; the plants 

 are set out in rows about 12 to 15 mches 

 apart. The important thing is to get your 

 plants set with all the roots straight in the 

 ground and soil packed firmly around the 

 plant. I begin cultivation atonce and keep 

 plants clean of weeds and grass until late 

 fall when I usually have a fine stand of 

 plants. Do not use any commercial fertil- 

 izer on them until a few weeks after they 

 are set out; I then make 2 or 3 applications 

 at different timies when plants are not wet 

 from rain or dew by broadcasting about 500 

 pounds per acre of raw bone meal or any 

 other good brand that does not contain any 

 potash as i tmight injure the plants. Of 

 course, I always grow cow peas on the land 

 previous to planting strawberries as straw- 

 berries need a soil full of humus. Barn- 

 yard manure will also furnish the humus 

 for them where cow peas are not grown. 

 Most all strawberries are grown by the 

 matted row system, that is to leave about 

 all the runners on the parent plant to take 

 root and make a wide row, leaving enough 

 room in the alley between the rows for the 

 convenience of the pickers. 



Note: If commercial fertilizers are 

 used under the plants just before they are 

 set out it will cause the plants to perish and 

 die. If fertilizer is used it should be broad- 

 cast on the land and thoroughly worked in 

 the soil before the ro\ys are made. For top- 

 dressing the bearing bees in the spring be- 

 fore fruiting, a fertilizer containing 7 per 

 cent Ammonia, 6 per cent Phosphoric Acid, 

 5 per cent Potash, I use with very satis- 

 factory results at the rate of about 400 to 

 600 lbs. per acre. C. S. P. 



