How to Grow “Dingee Roses” 
All Dingee Roses are propagated under such fav- 
orable conditions that our shibboleth, ‘““Dingee Roses 
Go and Grow Everywhere,” is literally true; but 
common sense tells us that certain kinds of Roses thrive 
better in some localities than in others. We have 
tried to indicate as nearly as possible, in connection 
with the different classes of Roses, the section of the 
country in which each will thrive to its full perfection 
with the least amount of protection. 
Preparation of Beds 
The way to get the best results from Roses when 
planted in beds is to make a trench to a depth of 15 to 
18 inches, that is, the soil should be removed to that 
depth, well pulverized and mixed with from one-third 
to one-fourth its bulk with well-rotted animal manure, 
cow stable manure preferable where it can be obtained. 
Before filling in the bed it is well to put in some material 
for drainage, such as soft coal cinders, broken crockery 
or stones, not too large. Then return the soil to the 
trench, and when returned it should stand from 3 to 4 
inches higher than the surrounding ground, as it will 
quickly settle below the surface. It is necessary to do 
this in order that rainwater will drain quickly away 
from the bed. If, however, the soil you remove from 
the trench is not the best Rose soil, as the best kind of 
soil for Roses is a clayey loam; if your soil does not 
contain this, it can be improved by mixing in sods from 
the roadside or fields; but if your soil is too heavy, it 
should be lightened with a portion of sand. The 
selection of your bed is a very important matter. 
Roses thrive best where they can secure all the sun 
possible; that is, do not plant them close to trees cr 
shrubbery, as the roots of these extend farther than the 
branches. Select, if possible, an open situation, where 
the plants will receive plenty of air and sunshine. A 
southeastern exposure is an ideal one. They will, 
however, do well in other locations, if given the neces- 
sary care. Roses do better if they are watered in the 
morning. 
Fertilizer 
This is a question we are frequently requested to 
answer. Cow manure is generally preferred, and can 
be used in fresh condition. Horse manure when new 
is very heating and should not be used while in this 
condition, except as a winter mulch. Hog, sheep and 
chicken manure are also very helpful. The last two, 
however, should be used sparingly. Ground bone is 
beneficial, but should be secured as fine as possible, and 
it should be used sparingly. The best method is sprink- 
ling a portion over the bed until the ground is entirely 
covered, then with the use of a fork it can be dug into 
the soil and thoroughly mixed. Air slaked lime is also 
beneficial, about a cupful to a plant scattered on the 
surface m early spring and midsummer. A mulching 
of cow stable manure is very beneficial during the 
growing season. It helps to retain the moisture during 
the dry season, as well as a food for the roots. 
Planting 
As soon as the plants are received it is best to 
immediately plant, yet if it is impossible to do this the 
plant should be placed in a cellar or moderately warm 
place and protected from the sun, Set them upright 
5 
When you receive 
to admit the free circulation of air. 
them they will be wrapped in Sphagnum Moss, which 
should be removed before planting, as it is used only 
for protection. Water freely from time to time. The 
roots should be covered with soil or burlap and never 
allowed to become dry. Soaking the roots in lukewarm 
water or thin mud for an hour or two before planting 
to restore their vitality is beneficial. Do not set the 
plants too shallow. They should be planted deeper 
than they were growing in the pots before shipping. 
This can easily be determined by an examination of the 
plant. If you receive them with the soil on the roots 
in which they have been growing, do not remove this 
soil. Give them as near a natural position as possible. 
Use plenty of water after planting and shade for a few 
days, if the sun is hot, with newspaper or similar 
material, and if the season is a dry one an occasional 
watering will be beneficial. The best time to plant 
Roses such as we send out, being pot-grown, own-root 
stock, is in early spring. This refers entirely to pot- 
grown plants and not dormant plants. By dormant 
plants we mean field-grown; that is, lifted from the 
field and have not made any growth whatever. Such 
plants as these should be set out earlier than pot-grown 
plants. 
Pruning | 
As a rule, the Roses that we send out do not need 
any pruning, being pot-grown plants. However, if 
the bushes are more spreading than is desired, it does 
not injure the plant any to prune it back. This applies 
only to the pot-grown plants. Pruning can be done at 
any season of the year with a certain class of Roses, but 
it is a matter to be governed by the judgment of the 
possessor of the plants. The best time for pruning is 
early spring, just before they begin to break at the eyes. 
Then it is well to trim Roses back to about one-third to 
one-half the season’s growth. The larger and heavier 
the growth the more it should be trimmed. 
Winter Protection 
The protection necessary to keep Roses safely 
through the winter months depends entirely upon the 
character of the plant and the location. For such Roses 
as the Hybrid Perpetuals, Rugosas, Harrison’s Yellow, 
etc., very little protection, if any, is necessary in any 
climate, yet it is beneficial in the cold latitudes of the 
North to give them protection of strawy horse stable 
manure after the first hard freeze. The soil itself is a 
good protection. When protecting the Teas and Hybrid 
Teas it is a good plan to mound the earth about each 
plant, or use clean sand about six inches deep, then fill 
in between the mounds with strawy stable manure, the 
coarser the better. —The uncovered tops may be tied up 
with straw or burlap. This protection should be grad- 
ually removed in March in the latitude of Philadelphia, 
or as soon as all danger of hard freezing is over. The 
tender Roses may also be wintered in boxes or pots of 
soil in a cool cellar or heeled in (the earth itself). Where 
you have a dirt floor two or three waterings will be 
required during the winter, just sufficient to prevent 
drying out. 
Diseases and Insects 
MILDEW—This disease very frequently attacks the 
foliage of Roses, especially the Crimson Rambler. It is 
shown by a grayish crinkling appearance of the leaves 
and usually occurs after a change in the temperature. 
