The Cape of loses. 



M 



'INTER PROTECTION OF ROSES.— The Hybrid 

 Perpetual, Moss and Climbing- Roses, being 



most hardy, require but httle protection. All classes 

 of Roses are now furnished so cheaply, that most peo- 

 ple think it pays better to get new plants every year 

 than to take much trouble in trying to keep tender sorts' over, 

 especially as it is found that fresh Young- Plants fre- 

 quently give more flowers and better satisfaction than old ones 

 ■wintered over. 



FALL TREATMENT.— In the Fall the Rose beds should have a good 

 dressing of stable manure or any fertilizing material that is convenient; the 

 Winter rains will carry the strength down to the roots, and the remaining 

 matter makes a nice mulch, which in many places is all the protection that is 

 necessary. 



WHERE THE WINTERS ARE NOT VERY SEVERE tender 

 Roses may be nicely covered with clean rye straw, forest leaves, or evergreen 

 branches, but care must be taken not to put it on too thick; the covering 

 should permit considerable circulation of air, and should not retain water; 

 and nothing should be used that will ferment, heat or rot. 



DO NOT COVER TOO SOON.— Whatever covering is used, it should 

 not be put on until late in the season, when the plants are well matured and 

 severe weather close at hand ; moderate freezing is not injurious. 



TO KEEP ROSES IN THE CELLAR.— When Roses cannot be pro- 

 tected in the open ground they can sometimes be kept nicely in the cellar. Take up as late in the season 

 as safe, that is just before Winter actually begins, cut back the tops within six inches of the ground, and 

 pack the roots in a box of nice, mellow soil, well firmed down ; place the box near a window in a light airy 

 cellar, or some similar position; water occasionally during the Winter, but only when absolutely necessary 

 to prevent shriveling. 



THE BEST WAY. — In places where the Winters are not more severe than at New York, many 

 varieties of the Ever-blooming Roses are nearly hardy, and we think the best way to treat them is to leave 

 all in open ground, giving a nice light covering of forest leaves, clean straw, or evergreen boughs. Expe- 

 rience shows that the loss will be as light in this as in any other way, and it is much the least trouble. 



WHEN TO UNCOVER. — Do not uncover in the Spring till frost has left the ground and there is a 

 prospect of reasonably settled weather. When uncovered the plants should be carefully pruned, takmg 

 care to remove all dead wood, and the beds should be nicely dug over and raked. 



ROSES IN POTS.— The Ever-blooming Hybrid Tea and Polyantha Roses are the best 

 for house culture, in pots. Our ordinary size Roses require three to four-inch pots ; larger Roses, five to 

 six-inch pots. Earth for potting should be mellow and rich, not such as will bake and become hard, nor 

 yet too light. If manure is used, it should be old and thoroughly composted; fresh manure is injurious. 

 When first potted, water the plants thoroughly, and if the sun is strong, shade lightly for a few days,- then 

 give full light and air. The plants should not be allowed to wither for want of water, but too much water 

 is worse than not enough. When Roses drop their leaves after being potted, it is generally owing to change 

 of temperature, and other conditions, but it may result from too large a pot, or too much water. The best 

 remedy is perfect rest ; keep quite dry until signs of new growth appear, then water very sparingly. The 

 conditions most favorable for growing Roses in pots are good rich soil, plenty of sunshine (the early morn- 

 ing sun is the best when it can be had), reasonable and regular heat, and moderate moisture ; the temper- 

 ature may range from 40° to 50° at night, and 60° to 80° in day time. 



HOW TO DESTROY INSECT ENEMIES. 



See pas:e 113 for Insecticides, Fertilisers, etc. 



APHIS OR GREEN FLY. — A strong suds, made of our new Tobacco Insecticide Soap, is sure 

 death. Wash or sprinkle the whole plant or dip in the suds as often as may be necessary. 



THE ROSE SLUG. — Slugs frequently appear suddenly, and increase very rapidly. They must be 

 attacked instantly. Dust the plants thickly with powdered or air-slacked lime, plaster-of-Paris, ashes or 

 even road dust, and repeat the same vigorously as often as may be necessary. If more convenient, the plants 

 may be thoroughly sprinkled and washed with a strong suds made with our New Tobacco Insecticide Soap, 

 or with strong brine. Hellebore and Gishurst's Compound are also desirable remedies. 



RED SPIDER is a very minute insect, first appearing on the under side of the leaves, and though 

 difficult to see, its effects are quickly noticeable by the browned or deadened appearance of the leaves. It 

 flourishes best in a hot, dry atmosphere, either in-doors or out; moisture is its greatest enemy. Sprinkle 

 or wash your plants frequently with Tobacco Insecticide Soap, taking care to wash the under side of the 

 leaves thoroughly, and you will not be troubled with Red Spider. 



THE THRIP is very destructive to Roses in some sections of the West. The best remedy is an 

 application of Gishurst's Compound, or a thorough wetting with a strong suds made by dissolving To- 

 bacco Insecticide Soap, taking care to wet thoroughly the under side of the leaves. 



OUR HOLLAND BULB CATALOGUE FOR FALL OF 



1890. 



Our New Autumn Guide will be ready September i, and will be sent without 

 request t>) customers of present season or last year ; to all others it will be sent free 

 upon application. Describes and offers at low prices a complete stock of Holland 

 Bulbs, imported especially for our retail trade ; beautiful and rare Novelties in Bulbs and 

 Plants for house culture ; large Roses, prepared for Winter bloom ; large Chrysanthe- 

 mums, Sweet Violets, House Plants, Hardy Shrubs, Vines, and Seeds for Fall 

 planting, etc. Address, 



THE DINCEE & CONARD CO., Growers and Importers, 



"W^ESX GROVE, I*A. 



(3) 



