An Ascent of Mount Humphreys 



S7' 



took our way toward the apex where it abuts against the foot 

 of the abrupt wall. Luckily, this talus-slope is of comparative- 

 ly small extent, as on account of its sliding tendencies it is one 

 of the most tiresome and aggravating features of the whole 

 climb. This successfully surmounted, the choice of two lines 

 of advance presented themselves — one, a steep chimney lead- 

 ing all the way to the top of the main ridge; the other, the 

 broken and jagged rocks separating this chimney from another 

 gully more to the left. On account of some previous expe- 

 rience, the writer was chosen to select the route and lead the 

 party from this point. Because of the greater liability of loose 

 and sliding rocks in the course of a chimney and the consequent 

 danger to the climbers in the rear, the more rugged and broken 

 route over the rocks to the left was the one determined upon. 

 From here on, that we might have no difficulty in retracing our 

 line of ascent, we carefully and continuously monumented our 

 route. While the monuments erected were rather hastily con- 

 structed, it is probable that enough of them will remain to be of 

 material assistance to anyone who attempts the ascent in 1920. 



From the time of leaving the head of the talus-pile to that of 

 reaching the saddle on the main ridge just at the northvv^est base 

 of the main peak no particular difficulties were encountered. 

 The climbing was rugged and somewhat strenuous, but per- 

 fectly feasible to anyone of sound wind and heart and good 

 muscles. No effort was made to follow any particular line or 

 the most direct route. Plenty of time was taken at intervals to 

 rest and enjoy the wild and ever-widening panorama. Some 

 care was taken to choose lines of advance that would mean the 

 least danger to the rear guard from loosened and falling rocks. 

 This caused us to zigzag back and forth across chimneys and 

 over separating ridges of rocks to other chimneys until, at 

 II 130 A. M., we suddenly emerged from a gully and found our- 

 selves overlooking Owens Valley. 



Standing here on the saddle, we found the wind, especially 

 on the side toward Humphrey Basin, to be decidedly chilly; 

 but donning our sweaters we curled up on the sunny side of a 

 rock overlooking the glacier at the head of McGee Creek on the 

 Owens Valley side and ate our lunch in perfect comfort. 



The view from the saddle, though exceedingly grand, was 



