Sierra Club Bulletin 



ervoirs of Leigh and Jenny lakes, which nestle against the base of 

 the range to the south. These little lakes are among the most beauti- 

 ful in America and should receive national protection. 



From the eastern shore of Jackson Lake there is a glorious and 

 impressive view of the Teton range, which rises Himalaya-like across 

 the lake. Adorned with glaciers and cathedral spires, the peaks clus- 

 ter about the Grand Teton, which looms above them all to the south, 

 13,747 feet in height. Its summit is about 7000 feet above the sur- 

 rounding country. Although limited in extent, the range is pecu- 

 liarly rugged and in some respects unique among American moun- 

 tains. Its many unclimbed summits offer most interesting rockwork, 

 for as yet they are almost unknown to the mountaineer. These fas- 

 cinating peaks are composed of many-colored rocks and are curi- 

 ously varied in form. To the south of the Grand Teton a naked gray 

 peak seems as if it had been lassoed, for a narrow chimney springs 

 from base to summit. On the inner cliffs of the last great peak to 

 the north. Mount Moran, a gigantic buttress of brown rock climbs 

 boldly to the top of the mountain. Adjacent to Yellowstone Park, 

 and unequaled by any mountains within its borders, this splendid 

 range should be added to the park as a fitting climax to its wonders. 



Second in height in the range, Mount Moran (12,100 feet) towers 

 above Jackson Lake, unique in its massive grandeur. While the 

 Grand Teton had been climbed, the sheer cliffs of Mount Moran 

 were said to be unclimbable. Several mountaineers had reached its 

 eastern glacier, but had not gone above it, while others had circled 

 the mountain, finding precipices on every side. Ben Sheffield, of 

 Moran, had spent many years in hunting sheep on its crags and in 

 seeking a route to its summit, but he had finally concluded that 

 staples must be driven into its cliffs before it could be conquered. 



Interested by these reports, we decided to have a near view of the 

 mountain, and in a few hours after arriving at Moran we were on 

 our way across the lake. It is about nine miles to the opposite shore. 

 We landed by moonlight, allowing the launch to return without 

 arrangement to call for us on the following day. Finding it unprof- 

 itable to work our way through the fallen timber, we spent the night 

 in our sleeping-bags near the shore. As so many had failed to find a 

 route on its eastern side, we had landed well to the north of the gla- 

 cier, intending to investigate the northern face of the mountain. 

 Early on the morning of August 1 1, 1919, we worked our way for 



