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Sierra Club Bulletin 



no doubt the same ledge that Mr. Bunn mentions, for I do not believe there is 

 another possible chance to climb the peak from the northwest side except to 

 use this ledge. Very carefully we worked our way along for a distance of some 

 twenty or thirty feet, and it brought us out right on the ridge of the spire. The 

 ridge was broken and jagged, and furnished in most places good handholds. 

 However, there was one place in particular where the traction furnished by 

 hands and feet seemed inadequate, and in that case the stomach was brought 

 into play also. Anyone who has been in these ticklish places knows what I 

 mean, and, I dare say, in similar circumstances has used the same method. 



The last two hundred and fifty feet of the climb is truly a scaly proposition, 

 the route of ascent here being along the comb of a ridge. About fifty feet from 

 the top the comb flattens out, and here a huge boulder is carefully balanced 

 along the crest. At first the climber thinks he can work his way around this 

 boulder, but after he has spent some time in trying to do so, and has inci- 

 dentally observed the delicately balanced position of the rock, he finds that the 

 only course open leads directly over the top of this stone and he fully expects 

 it to turn over when he steps on top of it. 



After passing this place, where the hair tends to assume a vertical position, 

 the top is reached in two minutes. We found the Sierra Club register in plain 

 view on a flat rock. Our names were added to the list of six already recorded, 

 and about one hour was spent on the top. 



The flat space on the top is not more than ten feet square. The stone is 

 badly broken, and indeed the summit resembles a huge rock-pile flattened out 

 at the apex. It is dangerous to get closer than within three feet of the edge 

 anywhere on the top on account of the looseness of the boulders. 



We found upon our arrival at the summit a lady-bug perched on the highest 

 point of the highest rock, taking life easy at 13,972 feet above sea-level. 



We were six hours making the climb from the McGee Creek camp, and the 

 return was made in about three hours, and in two more hours we were in 

 Bishop. 



Editor's Note. — Former ascents of Mount Humphreys as far as known are: James S. 

 Hutchinson and E. C. Hutchinson, July, 1904 (see Sierra Club BtrLLETiN, Jan., 1905, vol. 

 V, No. 3, p. 153); Dan Samardich, a prospector, 1917; George R. Bunn and two compan- 

 ions, August, 1919 (see Sierra Club Bulletin, Jan., 1920, vol. XI, No. i, p. 56.) 



Mountain- Climbing Notes 

 By Francs P. Farquhar 

 I. NORTH PALISADE (14,254 FEET) 



The North Palisade is the third highest peak in California, exceeded only by 

 Mount Whitney and Mount Williamson. It has always been considered one of 

 the most difficult peaks to climb in the Sierra. A brief summary of its history 

 and of the route of its ascent is given here for the benefit of future travelers. 



The first ascent was made July 25, 1903, by Joseph N. Le Conte, James S. 

 Hutchinson, and James K. Moffitt. It was not climbed again until ten years 

 later, when two parties from the Sierra Club outing of 1913 reached the top. 

 Hilda M. Atkinson and Charles W. Michael made the climb on July 19th, and 



