First Ascent of the Middle Palisade 



267 



The route that we chose for our second effort was by another chute 

 parallel to the one we had ascended in the morning and occupying 

 the same relative position to our goal. Almost immediately, however, 

 we found that the climbing was much more difficult than before and 

 we had to use the utmost care. Most of the lower ledges were covered 

 with deposits of loose gravel so that we found it wise to climb side 

 by side or take turns in standing by while gravel and rocks cascaded 

 down. 



It seemed a very long way to the top of this second peak, and the 

 climb did not become any easier as we progressed. Several times we 

 were discouraged and considered abandoning the climb, at least 

 until another day. But the feeling of discouragement never seemed 

 to attack us both at the same time, and on each occasion we turned 

 again to the task and continued upward. About three- fourths of the 

 way up we found, to our disgust, another small pile of rocks, and 

 then we had little doubt that our predecessors on Peak Disappoint- 

 ment had also preceded us on the main summit. 



Presently I found myself standing on a ledge to the right of Hall, 

 who was in the main chimney. I had reached the point with diffi- 

 culty and was now absolutely blocked from further progress upward. 

 The way across the ledge toward Hall did not seem very inviting, 

 and I studied the rocks carefully, with the thought of descending a 

 few feet and rejoining him by a lower route. But the more I looked 

 the more impossible seemed a descent, and presently I became un- 

 nerved and thoroughly scared. The longer I looked at the enormous 

 depth below the worse I felt. Even the ledge to which I was clinging 

 began to seem insecure, although, as a matter of fact, I had a per- 

 fectly safe hold. This feeling could not have lasted long, but I did a 

 good deal of scared imagining during the time. 



Hall, too, seemed to be in a situation from which further progress 

 was doubtful. He was only about fifteen feet away, but that seemed 

 a long distance to me just then. At length I pulled myself together, 

 subdued my fears, and began to concentrate my attention on the firm 

 granite close at hand, paying no heed to what was below. I promptly 

 recognized how easy it was to work along the ledge, and in a moment 

 I was across. 



We then held a brief consultation and, after examining the rocks 

 above, concluded that we had had about enough and definitely de- 

 cided to go down. We looked around for a route for the descent, and 



