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The various species of the Amaryllis succeed best in a rich sandy 

 loam, and the families of the Ixia, Oxalis, Feraria, Gladiolus, Antholyza, 

 Lachenalia, and most other Cape and Tropical bulbs require the soil to 

 be more sandy than for the generality of other bulbs. 



Forming the Beds. — The beds should be raised about 4 inches above 

 the level of the -walks, and moderately arched, which will afford an op- 

 portunity for the superfluous moisture to run off. Sand (either sea or 

 fresh) strewed in the trenches, before and after placing the roots will be 

 beneficial. 



Time of Planting. — For the Hyacinth, Tulip, Crown Imperial, 

 Squill, Lily, Polyanthus Narcissus, Double Narcissus, Jonquil, Iris, 

 Crocus, Colchicum, Star of Bethlehem, Snowdrop, Snowflake, Gladio- 

 lus. Allium, and most other hardy bulbs, the preferable season for plant- 

 ing is the months of October and November — and it is well to observe 

 that the species of bulbs above named (Tulips excepted) will thrive best 

 if not taken from the ground oftener than every second or third year. 

 The different species of the Feraria, Antholyza, Ixia, Crinum, Haeman- 

 thus, Eucomis, the tender species of Amaryllis, Pancratium, and Gladi- 

 olus, and most other delicate bulbs, may be planted during the months 

 of November and December, in pots, when intended to be siieltered dur- 

 ing the winter, or they can be kept in dry sand until April or May, and 

 '.hen be planted in pots, or in the open ground when it has become free 

 Trom frost, and perfectly settled. 



Depth and Distance. — Hyacinths, Persian Fritillary, Martagon, and 

 other Lilies, and Paeonies, should be planted at ttie depth of four inches ; 

 Crown Imperials and Polyanthus Narcissus, five inches ; Tulips, Double 

 and Single Narcissus, Jonquils, Colchicums, Snowflakes, Bulbous Iris, 

 and Gladiolus, three inches ; Crocus, Arums, small Fritillaries, and 

 Snowdrops, two inches ; Ranunculus and Anemone, one and a half 

 inches ; Dogstooth Violet, one inch, always measuring from the top of 

 the bulb. The rows should be ten inches apart, and the roots be placed 

 irom four to six inches apart in the rows, according to their size. 



Protection during Winter. — In the Middle and Northern States it 

 will on the approach of winter be beneficial, though not absolutely ne- 

 cessary, to cover the beds with straw, tanner's bark, withered leaves, 

 or light earth from the woods, such as is formed by the decay of foliage, 

 TO the depth of two or three inches, as it prevents any ill effects which 

 a very severe season might have upon the roots. This covering must be 

 5^arefully raked off early in the spring. The Polyahthus Narcissus, Hoop 

 Petticoat Narcissus, and Arum dracunculus being more tender than oth- 

 er species require a covering of five or six inches of straw or leaves in 

 '.he manner above detailed. 



Taking up Bulbs after flow ering. —Ahoxii a. month after the bloom is 

 passed, the foliage puts on a jellow decayed appearance. This is the 

 proper season for taking up the roots, on doing which, the stem and foli- 

 age should be cut off within an inch of the bulb, leaving the fibrous roots 

 attached to it. After this preparation, spread them singly in an airy 

 J! oom to dry for 2 or 3 weeks, then wrap each root carefully in paper, (the 

 air being injurious,) or put them in dry sand until replanted. 



Anemone and Ranunculus. — The soil should be compact and rich, not 

 light or sandy. A stiff Joamy soil suits them very well, and with it there 

 ►should be mixed one fourth part of rotten manure, and in doing this the 



