12 



FERRY'S SEEDS 



SOME HINTS FOR HOME GARDENERS 



THE SOIL 



If you have a rich sandy loam soil you will find it well adapted 

 to gardening. Other types of soil are quite suitable, but the 

 stiffer clays need heavier applications of fibrous material and 

 must be thoroughly broken up. The sandy soils generally need 

 more fertilizing. Vegetation does not thrive in the shade of 

 orchard or other trees. 



FERTILIZING 



A generous application of well rotted stable maniue is always 

 beneficial, but should be supplemented by the addition of 

 commercial fertilizer containing a good percentage of phosphate 

 and potash. Wood ashes can be applied liberally to most soils. 

 For general use where manure is not available, a commercial 

 fertilizer, containing 4 per cent nitrates, 12 per cent phosphate 

 and 4 to 6 per cent potash, is usually best. Such fertilizer should 

 be appHed at the rate of about 4 pounds to the square rod. 



PREPARING THE SOIL 



This is one of the most important factors in gardening. A 

 poorljf prepared soil, no matter how rich, usually results in 

 indifferent success. Work deeply and make the top 3 or 4 inches 

 as fine and loose as possible. Remember that much weed kiUing 

 can be done by hoeing or raking just before planting. This is 

 especially true of the later plantings. 



Avoid working clayey soils when wet enough to stick to a 

 hoe or spade. 



PLANTING 



Right at this point the amateur gardener can do much to 

 avoid disappointment and possible failure. Careful and proper 

 planting of seed is very important and there are four determin- 

 ing factors which the gardener can aid or control. These are: 



First — A constant and correct degree of moisture. The soil 

 should always be moist but never wet when avoidable. To 

 retain moisture after planting, cover seed immediately ^^ith fine 

 freshly prepared earth and press it do\\Ti firmly and smoothly. 

 This firming of the soil brings the particles of earth into close 

 contact with the seeds, prevents drying out and facihtates 

 growth. In small gardens this may be done by laying a board 

 lengthwise of the row and walking on the board. The back of 

 the hoe is most generally used. 



Second — -The proper degree of heat. This is secured by 

 planting when the atmospheric and soil temperatures are most 

 favorable for germination of kind of seed that is to be planted. 



Too high a temperature is often as detrimental as one too 

 low. In general a temperature between 65° and 75° is most favor- 

 able for germination. The best temperature for each sort may be 

 learned from careful study of our cultural directions and by 

 inquiry among the successful gardeners in your neighborhood. 



Third — Covering the seed at the right depth. This varies 

 with different kinds of seeds and conditions of soil and can be 

 learned only through practical experience. In general, seeds 

 the size of turnip should not be covered more than a half inch. 

 The larger seeds such as peas, beans and corn may be planted 1 

 to 2J^ inches deep. 



Fourth — Condition of the soil. It must be loose and soft so 

 that the tender stems of seedlings can easily emerge and the 

 young roots quickly find plant food. This is usually secured 

 by careful preparation of the soil and not planting fine seeds 



when the ground is wet. TMiere a heavy crust forms it can be 

 broken up sometimes sufficiently to let the seedlings through 

 by gently picking the soil over the seed row v.-ith the points 

 of the rake teeth. There are times when weather conditions 

 render it impossible for seedlings to survive. In such cases 

 the only thing to do is plant again. 



CULTIVATION 



Stirring the surface soil during the period of growth is bene- 

 ficial in more ways than one. It kills weeds, loosens the ground 

 so as to encourage root development, allows air to enter and by 

 forming a mulch preserves moisture. 



Cultivation may be deep at first, but as the plants grow it 

 should be shallower to avoid injury to the root system. Yields 

 are often much reduced bj^ t oo deep and close cultivation after the 

 roots have fully occupied the ground. A small garden well cared 

 for is better than a large one poorly prepared and neglected. 



STARTING PLANTS INDOORS 



Plants of such vegetables as tomato, pepper, egg plant, celery 

 and many of the flowers can be started indoors. Shallow 

 wooden boxes three to four inches deep and of a size convenient 

 to handle are suitable for this purpose. Fill the box -nith rich 

 loose soil and plant the seed rows about 2 inches apart. Place it 

 in a window where it ^vill have plenty of light, and keep the soil 

 damp. As soon as the seedlings are a half inch tall transplant 

 them to other boxes setting them at least two inches apart 

 each way. To prevent the plants from becoming too spindhng 

 give them all the sunlight possible and do not allow the tem- 

 perature to become high. Seventy degrees is usually high enough. 



Before setting in the garden the plants ^^•ill be better if 

 hardened off; to do this set the boxes outdoors on mild days, 

 protecting them at night until they are able to stand the 

 weather ■without injury. 



HOTBEDS 



A good hotbed is the most economical means of gaining 

 time and thus securing earlier vegetables. The construction 

 is so simple and the expense so slight that any gardener can 

 provide himself mth one. 



For the frame take one inch boards cut to the length of 

 the hotbed desired, having the back boards 12 to 16 inches 

 wide and the front ones ten to twelve. The end boards must be 

 cut to match the front and back measurements. 



For home gardeners we recommend that the frame be made 

 four or five feet wide in order to fit a sash of convenient size. 

 The glass for sash should be at least 10 x 14 inches and can be 

 home made or procured from your neighborhood carpenter. 

 In fitting the glass to the sash it should be laid hke shingles 

 with a lap of about J^ inch. 



HEATING MATERIAL 



The best heating material that is easily available is fresh 

 horse mamne, containing a liberal quantity of straw bedding. 

 'WTiat is wanted in the hotbed is a steady and moderate, but 

 lasting heat. To secure this, the manure should be forked over, 

 shaken apart and if dry, watered and allowed to stand a few 

 days and then be forked over again, piled and allowed to heat a 

 second time, the object being to get the whole mass into a 

 uniform degree of fermentation and as soon as this is accom- 

 plished it is fit for use. 



