ROSES 



HOW TO GROW THEM 



SITUATION.— Good Roses may be grown in almost any soil and position; but if the hig-hest 

 quality is desired, it is necessary to select an open, sunny position, sheltered from north winds, and 

 clear of all roots of trees and shrubs. 



PREPARATION OF THE BEDS. -Roses will g-row and g-ive good returns in any fertile, well- 

 drained ground; but it is worth while to use some care in the preparation of the beds, as the g-eneral 

 health of the plants, quantity and quality of bloom usually more than repays the extra care expended 

 on this detail. The best soil for Roses is sod from an old pasture and well rotted cow manure. Dig 

 out the bed to a depth of two to three feet, and. if drainage is imperfect, it must be provided for by 

 putting- six inches to a foot of broken stones, cinders, or any roug-h material in the bottom. Fill in 

 with a mixture of soil and manure as above. It is best to make the beds some time in advance of 

 planting-, to allow time for settling-. After the soil is settled, it should be about an inch below the 

 level of the adjacent surface; make the beds not over three and a half feet wide, which enables you 

 to pick the blooms without stepping- on the bed. 



PLANTING AND SUMMER CARE.— The ideal time to plant is in the spring, just after danger 

 from frost is past. 



Tea and Hybrid Tea varieties can be set 18 inches apart. Hybrid Perpetuals two feet apart, and 

 both eight inches from the edge of the beds. W hen the plants are supplied in pots, they should 

 be set so that the ball of earth is about two and one-half inches below the level of the ground. Firm 

 the soil well around the roots, and g-ive a thorough watering if the soil is dry. Throughout the sum- 

 mer the surface of the bed should be cultivated weekly. If this is done watering wiU be unnecessary. 

 There is no better mulch than drj% loose soil. 



PRUNING.— About the end of October, it is well to cut back to about three feet all the canes of 

 the strong-growing sorts. This prevents them from being whipped by the winter winds, which. 

 unless staked, would loosen and break the tender feeding roots. The principal pruning should be 

 doue in the spring, beginning with the Hybrid Perpetuals in March. 



If quantity of bloom for garden effect is the object sought, then four or five canes may be left 

 three feet in length, and the very old or w^eak growth cut away entirely. After the plants are 

 through blooming, the canes should be shortened back at least one-half to enable the plants to make 

 a strong growth for the next season of bloom. 



If quality is desired, all weak growth should be removed, and the remaining canes cut back in 

 proportion to their development, the weaker ones to about four inches from the root, and stronger 

 ones eight to nine inches. All canes should be cut about a quarter of an inch above an outside bud. 

 By doing this, the plant will grow in an open head, as the buds usually grow in whatever direction 

 they first take. Roses, pruned in this way. require no staking up, and will need no summer prun- 

 ing, the cutting of the flowers with good stems being sufficient. 



Hybrid Tea and Tea sorts are be^t not pruned until they show evidence of growth, indicated by 

 the buds begining to swell. By that time dead or unhealthy w^ood is readily detected, making it easy 

 to see what should be cut away and what should be retained. They do not need such severe pruning 

 as that described for the Hybrid Perpetuals, and all wood that looks promising may be left on. 



Climbing Roses require no pruning beyond cutting out the very old or dead wood and the short- 

 ening of the laterals and canes to make the growth conform to the space to be covered. 



WINTER PROTECTION.— In the latitude of Philadelphia a covering of three or four inches of 

 manure or leaves over the entire bed is sufficient. In colder latitudes, draw the leaves up around the 

 stems six or eight inches higher, and in very cold places earth them up and protect with corn stalks 

 or evergreen boughs. For Tea Roses a good plan is to put a temporary fence of twelve-inch chicken 

 wire netting around the bed, filling in loosely with leaves, with a little earth or some branches over 

 to prevent them from blowing away. 



ENEMIES.— When grown under favorable conditions, Roses are not so apt to be attacked by in- 

 sect pests and other troubles as they are if half starved and otherwise neglected. Among the most 

 troublesome pests are the Rose Beetles. Hand-picking seems to be the only remedy for this. Slugs, 

 which eat away the leaves are readily destroyed by a decoction of Powdered White Hellebore (two 

 tablespoonfuls to a bucket of boiling water) applied, when cool, with a whisk broom or any sprayer 

 that will reach the under side of the leave s. The green fly or "Aphis" is quickly removed with any 

 of the tobacco solutions or Whale Oil Soap, or a mixture of both. Powdered Sulphur is the best 

 remedy for mildew, which should be dusted on when the plants are wet with dew. 



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