Avoid Late Setting 
Late in the season plants have produced a heavy 
foliage growth. This drains the vitality from the roots 
and in hot, dry seasons especially will make them dry 
and withered by May 1st or soon after. In setting 
plants with a heavy top growth, when roots are set at 
the proper depth the long, large stems and leaves make 
the plants seem top-heavy and there is a tendency to 
set the plant too deep. If the plants are to live the 
buds must not be covered and the soil must be pressed 
firmly about the roots. When the weather is cool and 
soil conditions are good, such late-set plants generally 
prove satisfactory. If soil conditions are bad it is 
almost impossible to get a good stand and growth. 
We know of several experiments by the U. S. Depart- 
ment of Agriculture and State workers where plants 
have been dug in March while they were still dormant 
and put in cold storage. They were held at 32 degrees 
F. and taken out at intervals for planting. In every 
case such storage plants have proved better than 
freshly dug plants after April 15th and far better after 
May 1st. Where storage facilities are available we 
recommend this practice for those who cannot usually 
set plants by May 1st or earlier. 
Manure and Fertilizer 
Chemical fertilizers are not always needed. Soils 
that are naturally fertile and have had frequent ap- 
plications of stable manure may not need the addition 
of any chemical fertilizers. A rank healthy growth 
of plants with vigorous, dark green foliage is evidence 
that the fertilizer is not needed. Barnyard manure 
supplying both humus and nitrogen is the "best fertilizer 
for strawberries. It should be applied broadcast and 
disced into the soil before plants are set. On very heavy 
soils it may be best to plow it under. Equally satis- 
factory results are usually had if a heavy application 
has been made to the previous crop. 
As a plant grower and starter we use about 700 
lbs. per acre of a mixture composed of 1500 lbs. Dis- 
solved (acidulated) bone and 500 lbs. Superphosphate. 
We have had very fine results from this mixture put 
in the drill and thoroughly mixed with the soil before 
plants were set. It can safely be applied broadcast 
but it is not as effective as putting it under the plants 
or using it as a side dressing soon after plants have 
started growth in the spring. Other organic forms of 
nitrogen like tankage or cotton seed meal would be 
satisfactory in this mixture. The formula should be 
fairly high in both nitrogen and phosphorus. Salts of 
nitrogen and potash should never be put on where 
they come in contact with the roots of strawberry 
plants. These materials in complete fertilizers 
have killed many plants in the past, the dying 
out occurring throughout the summer as the 
plants become gradually weakened. Wet weather 
and thorough mixing with the soil tend to lessen 
the chances of injury. 
Fertilizers for fruiting beds are most effective 
when applied in late summer or early fall. During the 
last of August we use about 600 lbs. per acre of a mix- 
ture made up as follows: 300 lbs. Sulphate of Ammonia, 
300 lbs. Nitrate of Soda, 400 lbs. Dissolved Bone, 900 
lbs. Super Phosphate, 100 lbs. Muriate of Potash. It 
is most important that foliage be thoroughly dry when 
applications are made and that any which lodges on 
the leaves be brushed off promptly. Applications in 
late summer tend to aid in the development of fruit 
buds, strong crowns and large leaf area per plant. 
Spring applications are not recommended except where 
land is very poor or where the plant growth has been 
weak the preceding fall. Where spring applications 
are made they should be put on before growth has 
started. It is sometimes best to make spring applica- 
tions on two year old beds where the fruit buds formed 
may be plentiful but vigor not up to standard. 
As a substitute for the fertilizers recommended in 
either late summer or fall, tankage, fish, cotton seed 
meal, or any other organic nitrogen can be used very 
successfully. Nitrate of Soda acts the quickest of 
anything but is more likely to burn unless care is used 
in its application. 
Fertilizer elements. We believe that most soils 
have sufficient potash for strawberries naturally present 
in them or left over from fertilizers applied to other 
crops. It is contended in some places that good results 
have been obtained by its use. We have included 2 % 
of potash in our summer application for insurance only. 
We have never seen any direct benefit from its use. A 
fairly high percentage of phosphorus should be in- 
cluded in any fertilizer application for strawberries. 
Tests generally have shown a good response to its use. 
Nitrogen is the most important fertilizer element for 
strawberries. Contrary to popular opinion, the proper 
amount of nitrogen does not make berries softer ex- 
cept as it makes them larger. An excess of nitrogen 
will make berries softer and more subject to rot. The 
main reason for recommending late summer applica- 
tions to fruiting beds is that the nitrogen is used in 
stimulating fruit bud formation and strong crown de- 
velopment rather than a rank vegetative growth which 
is more likely from spring applications. 
For Everbearing strawberries, fertilizers should be 
similar to those for standard varieties except that 
three or four applications can be made during the 
summer and fall to help increase size and quantity of 
berries ripening during that period. 
Soil Acidity and Lime 
Strawberries grow best in a soil that is slightly acid. 
They grow satisfactorily in soils running from slightly 
sweet to moderately acid. They will hardly grow at 
all in soils that are moderately sweet or very acid. For 
those familiar with pH tests for soil acidity we can say 
that the optimum is from 5.7 to 6. The range of 
satisfactory growth is from 5 to 7 and they will sur- 
vive within a range of 4 to 8. Experiments in Virginia 
and elsewhere demonstrate that strawberries will 
thrive under more acid conditions if there is a large 
content of organic matter. Where strawberries have 
been planted on soils that are quite sweet Ammonium 
Sulphate should be substituted for Nitrate of Soda 
in fertilizer applications. If lime is to be used to correct 
a very acid condition we would prefer to have it applied 
to the previous crop or at least during the fall preceding 
spring setting. 
Even though strawberries are known as an acid soil 
crop, yet some soils are so acid that an application of 
lime will be of great help. On the other hand, unless 
excessive amounts of lime have been added, very few 
soils need be avoided on account of its lime content. 
Cultivation 
Uncover the buds. The plants should be culti- 
vated and hoed soon after they have started growth 
after being set out. It is very important at the first 
hoeing to uncover the buds of any plants which may 
have been planted too deep or have become covered 
after planting. If this is not done very early many of 
these plants will die. Most of them will not recover 
in time to amount to anything even though they might 
live all summer. On heavy soils this is even more im- 
portant and in some cases is the biggest single factor in 
failing to get a good stand of vigorous growing plants. 
Cultivate often enough to keep the surface of the 
ground from becoming crusted and to keep down the 
grass and weeds. It is not necessary to practice deep 
cultivation. A depth of one to one and one-half inches 
is deep enough for the hoe, or perhaps slightly deeper 
with the horse cultivator. Frequent cultivation should 
be given even though weed and grass growth is not a 
serious problem. It is important to remember also 
that two cultivations made in time are much more 
helpful and much less work than one made after grass 
and weeds get bad. 
Surveys of many strawberry fields have shown that 
the fields which received frequent hoeing and cultiva- 
tion made larger, stronger fruiting beds and a better 
crop of berries. We have found this to be especially 
true in getting a good bed of Chesapeake and other 
varieties which normally do not make many plants. 
Cutting the Blossoms 
Blossoms should be removed from newly set plants 
as soon as they appear. To allow them to set berries 
and mature them involves a drain on the vitality of 
the plants. Removal of blossoms aids the plants in 
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