NEW GUIDE TO ROSE CULTURE. 



perseverance to resist the present attack is all that is needed ; next year you may not be troubled with in- 

 sects at all. 



Aphis or Green Fly. — The best remedy is tobacco smoke. It can be applied by covering the 

 plant with a box or barrel, and putting under a little burning tobacco. The plant should remain in the 

 smoke for several hours and then be thoroughly washed off with blood-warm water. If more convenient 

 to apply, a strong tea of tobacco will answer very well. Wash or sprinkle the whole plant or dip it in the 

 tea as often as may be necessary. For Roses in pots, a hot-water bath will answer the same purpose. The 

 water should be as hot as the hand can bear, say about 130 degrees, and the whole top of the plant dipped in 

 quickly, two or three times in succession, but it must not remain in more than two seconds at a time. 



The Rose Slug. — Slugs frequently appear suddenly and increase very rapidly. They must be at- 

 tacked instantly. Dust the plants thickly with powdered or air-slacked lime, plaster of Paris, ashes, or even 

 road dust, and repeat the same vigorously as often as may be necessary. If more convenient, the plants 

 may be thoroughly sprinkled and washed with a strong suds made with soap and salt, or with brine alone. 

 Slugs seldom appear more than once in a season, and can easily be destroyed if taken promptly. 



The Rose Bug is of a grayish color and about one-half an inch in length. It appears suddenly 

 in June, and feeds on the opening buds and flowers. The only cure is hand-picking. This is not a serious 

 matter if attended to as soon as they appear. The best time to gather them is early in the morning. They 

 may be quickly brushed or picked into a vessel containing water, after which they should be burned. 



Mildew does not usually kill Roses, but retards their growth and sometimes prevents their blooming. 

 It is believed to be induced by atmospheric causes, as sudden changes of temperature, moisture, etc. For 

 out-door plants, a thorough stirring of the soil, with a view to encourage strong growth, is probably the 

 best thing that can be done. In-doors the same treatment, with the addition of a fine dusting of flour of 

 sulphur over the whole plant. Sulphur is the best known remedy for mildew. 



Red Spider is a very minute insect, first appearing on the under side of the leaves, and though 

 difficult to see, its effects are quickly noticeable by the browned or deadened appearance of the leaves. It 

 flourishes best in a hot, dry atmosphere, either in-doors or out ; moisture is its greatest enemy. Sprinkle 

 or wash your plants frequently, taking care to wash the under side of the leaves thoroughly , and you will not 

 be troubled with Red Spider. In bad attacks it may be necessary to sponge the leaves daily with warm 

 water until the pest is thoroughly destroyed. 



The Thrip is very destructive to Roses in some sections of the West ; it is a small hopper, varying 

 in color from black to brown, and is found on the under side of the leaves. The best remedy is said to be 

 a thorough wetting with a strong suds of whale-oil soap, or soap and salt, or very strong tobacco tea, taking 

 care to wet thoroughly the under side of the leaves. We presume that a teaspoonful of Hellebore, or Paris 

 Green, dissolved in a pail of water and applied in the same way, would be equally effective. 



As alj Insects like to be LET ALONE, and strongly dislike to be disturbed, they can frequently 

 be kept in subjection by vigorously hoeing and raking the ground every day, dusting, sprinkling and wash- 

 ing the plants. We must destroy the pests by every means in our power. 



Winter Protection of Roses. 



Winter Protection is not so important a matter as formerly. The HYBRID PERPETUAL, MOSS 

 AND CLIMBING ROSES, being mostly hardy, require but little protection, and all classes of Roses are 

 now furnished so cheaply, that most people think it pays better to get new plants every year than to take 

 much trouble in trying to keep tender sorts over, ESPECIALLY AS IT IS FOUND THAT FRESH 

 YOUNG PLANTS FREQUENTLY GIVE MORE FLOWERS AND BETTER SATISFACTION 

 THAN OLD ONES WINTERED OVER. We, however, give the best methods for Winter Protection, 

 so that our friends can adopt any plan they prefer. 



Fall Treatment. — In the Fall, the Rose beds should have a good dressing of stable manure or any 

 fertilizing material that is convenient ; the Winter rains will carry the strength down to the roots, and the 

 remaining matter makes a nice mulch, which in many places is all the protection that is necessary. In very 

 cold localities it is a good plan to cover the beds all over with old sods, fresh earth, or coal ashes, from three 

 to six inches deep. 



Where the Winters are not very severe tender Roses may be nicely covered with clean rye 

 straw, forest leaves, or evergreen branches, but care must be taken not to put it on too thick ; the covering 

 should permit considerable circulation of air, and should not retain water; and nothing should be used that 

 will ferment, heat or rot. The object of covering is not to keep the plants warm, but to break the force of 

 sudden and violent changes, cold, drying winds, etc. 



Do not cover too soon. — Whatever covering is used, it should not be put on till late in the season, 

 when the plants are well matured and severe weather close at hand ; moderate freezing is not injurious. 



To keep Roses in the Cellar.— When Roses cannot be protected in the open ground they can 

 sometimes be kept nicely in the cellar: — Take up as late in the season as safe, that is just before Winter 

 actually begins, cut back the tops within six inches of the ground, and pack the roots in a box of nice, 

 mellow soil, well firmed down ; place the box near a window in a light, airy cellar, or some similar posi- 

 tion, water occasionally during the Winter, but only when absolutely necessary to prevent shriveling, as 

 dormant plants require but little water ; set out in open ground as early in Spring as weather is suitable. 



The Best Way. — In places where the Winters are not more severe than at New York, many varie- 

 ties of the Ever-Blooming Roses are nearly hardy, and we think the best way to treat them is to leave all 



