NEW GUIDE TO ROSE CULTURE. 9 



of a fine dusting of flour of sulphur over the whole plant. Sulphur is thought to be an antidote to the 

 growth of fungus, of which the white mould referred to is one form. 



The Mealy Bug' is not apt to trouble Roses much; but is sometimes very injurious to other 

 house plants. It nestles closely at the base of the leaves and branches, and resembles at first sight a 

 speck of white cotton, but on close examination proves to be a repulsive looking bug covered with a 

 white powder. He is rather fond of Tobacco and other poisons, but does not like Alcohol. So' this 

 is the thing to give him — it can be put on with a feather or small brush, and he can be removed with 

 a pin or needle. 



Red Spider is a very minute insect, first appearing on the underside of the leaves, and though 

 difficult to see, unless present in considerable numbers, its effects are quickly noticeable by the 

 browned or deadened appearance of the leaves. It flourishes best in a hot dry atmosphere, either in- 

 doors or out ; moisture is its greatest enemy. Sprinkle or %vash your plants frequently, taking care to 

 zvet the underside of the leaves thoroughly, and you will not be troubled with Red Spider, In bad at- 

 tacks it may be necessary to sponge the leaves daily with warm water until the pest is thoroughly 

 destroyed. 



"White "Worms at the Root.— If troubled with White Worms at the root, take up and wash 

 the roots clean in warm water, and re-pot in soil that has been prepared as directed on page 7. 



ROSES IN BEDS OR MASSES. 



To produce the finest effect, Roses should undoubtedly be planted in beds or masses— =no other 

 flowers should be planted with them. When convenient, circular beds are perhaps the most desirable. 

 These should be highest in the middle,. sloping gradually to the edge. Abed 12 feet in diameter will 

 hold 150 Roses nicely. 



Deep bright colors are usually preferred for massing — .some people prefer to plant but one sort in a 

 bed— -others like to have as many different kinds as possible in the same bed — -this is a matter of taste 

 however, that people will decide for themselves— THE MAIN THING IS TO PLANT PLENTY 

 OF THEM. All Roses are beautiful. And it does not make much difference how they are arranged. 



WINTER PROTECTION OF ROSES. 



Winter protection is not so important a matter now as it used to be, because Roses are so cheaply 

 and easily replaced, that it does not pay to incur much trouble or expense in keeping them over, 



Qeneral Directions.—- So much depends on climate, location, condition of plants, &c., that 

 only general directions for Winter protection can be given, the rest must be learned by trial and ex- 

 perience. It is important not to cover too soon, defer covering as late as possible, moderate freezing 

 helps to m?iture and ripen the plant, and renders it easier kept during Winter. The covering should 

 allow considerable circulation of air and light, and must not pack and retain water, or rot or decay. 

 Do not uncover in the Spring until frost has left the ground, and there is a prospect of reasonably 

 settled weather; when uncovered, the plants should b^ cut back and pruned as directed, and the bed 

 nicely dug over and raked. 



Our Plan. — In localities where the Winters are not more severe than at New York city, many of 

 the Ever-Blooming Roses are. nearly hardy, and we think it best to leave all in open ground, giving 

 such slight protection as may be convenient, the percentage of loss will be quite as low as in any 

 other way, and much less trouble. 



When convenient, the Rose beds may be nicely covered four or six inches deep with forest leaves, 

 held in place by Evergreen boughs or brush df any kind laid loosely on and around the plants. Coal 

 ashes, too, makes an excellent covering, it should be put all over the bed six or twelve inches deep; 

 when these are not at hand, sods, road or street scrapings, or even ordinary earth may be used. If 

 stable manure is put on, it must not be thick enough to heat or ferment. 



To Keep in the Cellar. — Take up as late in the season as safe, that is just before Winter 

 actually begins, cut back the tops within six inches of the ground, and pack the roots in a box of nice 

 mellow soil well firmed down, place the box near a window in a light airy cellar, or some similar 

 position, water occasionally during the winter, but only when absolutely necessary, as dormant plants 

 re(|uire but little water; set out in open ground as early in Spring as Weather is suitable. 



