The J. Bolgiano Seed Company, Baltimore, Md. 



3. Seeds which may be plamted in the garden in succession in the open: Stringless Beans, Peas, Carrots, Spinach, 

 Beets, Corn, Radish, Lettuce, Turnip. 



For succession planting allow about two weeks between each planting. This will give a continuous supply of ripe 

 vegetables of any of the above varieties. 



One point always to be borne in mind is, in follow crops on the same ground, do not plant the same vegetables. 

 For example, do not follow cabbage in the same ground that cabbage has just been raised. The reason for this is that 

 plant disease is more easily developed and continued if this is done. 



Time Of Planting 



Garden plants are divided into about four more or less distinct groups. 



Early cabbage plants, kale, onion sets, smooth peas, Irish potatoes, and radishes may be planted two weeks before 

 the average date of the last killing frost. 



Beets, Swiss chard, carrots, lettuce, wrinkled peas, cauliflower, spinach and sweet corn may be planted about the date 

 of the last killing frost. 



Beans, parsnips, salsify, melons, cucumbers, tomato and sweet potato plants may be planted after the last killing frost. 



The heat-loving plants, such as peppers, eggplants, Lima beans, and the squashes, should not be planted in the open 

 until the ground has thoroughly warmed, which will be about four weeks after the last killing frost. 



There are a number of crops, such as snap beans, lettuce, radishes, and beets, that should be planted at intervals in 

 order to insure a continuous supply throughout the season. In the case of snap beans as many as five different plantings 

 may be had in some sections. In the southern part of the United States special attention should be given to the plant- 

 ing of the semi-hardy crops, such as spinach, kale, and cabbage, during the autumn, in order to have a supply through- 

 out the Winter. 



Preparation Of The Soil 



If the soil has not been previously cultivated, it is best to prepare it in the Fall particularly if it is heavy clay, as 

 freezing and the thawing loosen the soil and help to condition it. 



For Spring preparation, work as early as possible. However, more harm than good will result if the soil is too wet. 

 The simplest and most effective test is to take a handful of soil and squeeze it together; if the imprint of the fingers 

 remains in the soil when the hand is opened it is too wet to work. It should crumble between the fingers. 



The best soil is a sandy loam. Heavy clay soil may be improved by adding sand, fresh sifted ashes, stable manure, 

 or leaf mould, before digging. Lime should be used if the soil is damp and soggy, to counteract the acid condition of 

 such soil. Only sifted ashes should be used. This tends to make the soil more friable. Fresh hardwood ashes are also 

 good and have excellent fertilizing quahties. Stable manure is best if well rotted, and should contain no sawdust, or wood 

 shavings. Leaf mould should only be used after the top 3 inches, which contain wild weed' seed, have been removed. 



Poultry and Sheep Manure are also good, but commercial varieties only should be used which are obtained from 

 stock yards and which are free of weed seed. It is best to use these manures in the hills or in transplanting rather 

 than as a general fertilizer, due to their high percentage of nitrogen. 



When digging the soil make a thorough job of it. If the garden is large enough have it dc«ie with a horse and plow, 

 but if it is not, the digging should be done with a fork, and to a depth of 12 inches. A thorough digging means 

 the difference between a productive garden and a poor garden. No plant can have its best development if its strength 

 is used to penetrate a hard soil to obtain sustenance. 



Rake carefully, removing all rocks and othpr matter, reduce all lumps of dirt and smooth until the soil is in a finely 

 divided soft pliable condition when it is ready for seeding. 



Starting Early Plants 



Having specific plans for the garden, preparations m.ay be made for an early start. As above stated, early plants 

 may be obtained by the use of the seed flat or the hotbed. The seed flat is generally recommended for the home garden. 



A very satisfactory seed flat may be made by sawing off about 4 inches of the bottom portion of a box of a conven- 

 ient size to handle easily. Fill this box with fine sifted soil and to which it is well to add some fertilizer and press down 

 firmly but not too soUdly. By means of a ruler or other similar article make little furrows in the soil about 2 inches 

 apart and not over % of an inch deep. The usual rule for planting seed is twice the diameter of the seed. Spread the 

 seed thinly and cover after which give a light watering. It is suggested that the soil be covered with newspaper until 

 the seed has sprouted and the plants begin to show above the ground. The best location for a seed flat is in the win- 

 dow where the sun can strike it part of the day. It is a good plan to turn the seed flat from day to day so that the 

 sun can strike it evenly. Water occasionally and do not forget this important part. 



When the plants have attained sufficient height transplant to another seed flat setting the plants about 3 inches from 

 each other each way. As the plants develop place the flat in a sheltered place in the open, on warm, sunshiny day^, 

 to harden them off, and when the danger of frost is pastj transplant to the position originaUy planned in the out- 

 door garden. 



