^1850 



iiNGEE Guide To Rose Cvo^ure 



1910 



How to Grow Roses 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL 



SHOULD the soil you have at disposal be natu- 

 rally poor, it may be made fertile by substituting 

 a quantity of loam, which can be readily ob- 

 tained from the sod by the roadside or from the 

 fields. To still further enrich the soil, where it is 

 accessible, add to each wheelbarrow-load of loam 

 about one-third of its bulk of well-rotted stable 

 manure; also some sand, if there be a lacii of this 

 constituent; or use fine, well-decomposed stable 

 manure, which is the best fertilizer for general 

 purposes. If this cannot be obtained, fine ground 

 bone or commercial fertilizers may be employed, 

 but if used too freely they are likely to injure the 

 plants. None but such fertilizers as are free from 

 acids should be used. Manure applied in the fall will 

 serve as a partial protection over winter, and in the 

 spring it will be beneficial as a mulch. An excellent 

 plant-food, wliich may be used at all times with 



The Rambler Rose, Lady Gay, at horne, growing 

 over the garden gate. 



entire safety, is Bonora, offered elsewhere in this 

 book. 



Having prepared the ground, set the plants 

 about 12 to 18 inches apart. Do not hesitate to 

 place the roots well below the surface of the soil, 

 arranging them as far as possible in their, natural 

 position. Cover the roots, pressing firmly dowm 

 upon them and in around the stem. After planting, 

 water freely, and, if the sun be strong, protect them 

 for a few days with a covering of newspapers or 

 other suitable material. Cut off all withered wood 

 and foliage. Water judiciously — that is, not too 

 freely — and daily, until they show signs of haAdng 

 become established. Do not plant if the ground is 

 wet, as the soil will become baked, and thus en- 

 danger the safety of the plants. During the pres- 

 ence of protracted drought, the plants should be 

 watered daily in the evenings. A little care and 

 forethought exercised when the plants are small 

 will have their reward in great, sturdy, vigorous 

 bushes in a wonderfully short time. 



UNPACKING PLANTS 



WHEN the plants are received, if, for any 

 reason it is desired to defer irmnediate plant- 

 ing, place the plants in the cellar or any 

 moderately warm place, protect from the sun, set 

 them upright, admitting the free circulation of air, 

 and water freely from time to time. A slight cover- 

 ing of soil aroimd the roots will be beneficial. Soak 

 the roots in lukewarm water or thin mud for an 

 hour or so before planting, to restore their vitality. 



PLANTING 



THE proper time for planting in the various 

 sections of the coimtry largely depends first, 

 upon the location, and, second, upon the char- 

 acter of the plant. In the warm climate of the Pa- 

 cific coast, southern and southwestern states, in 

 fact, all sections where frosts are infrequent and 

 the winters mild, pot-grown as well as dormant 

 Roses may be planted in the late fall, as well as in 

 the early spring. In the southern states fall planting 

 of both these classes of Roses is considered desirable, 

 but, if the conditions are such that it cannot be 

 accomplished, then, in the early spring months 

 they may be set out with entire safety. 



As to where the preference lies between plants 

 that are pot-grown imder glass, and dormant, field- 

 grown plants, it is not easy to discriminate. Our 

 own experience has been that in the southern 

 and southwestern states, as well as on the Pacific 

 coast, the planting of the one-year-old Roses during 

 the months of February, March and April, accord- 

 ing to the location, may be accomplished with splen- 

 did satisfaction. In the states north of Virginia, 

 and even in the greater portion of Virginia, and 

 throughout the middle section of the country, as 

 well as in the states in the northwest, the best time 

 to plant is during the spring or early summer months. 

 In manj^ of the moderately cold states, dormant 

 Roses may be set out with safety during the fall 

 months, but in the section of which we have 

 latterly spoken, dormant Roses — and when we say 

 "dormant" we mean Roses that have been lifted 

 from the field, which, when sent out, have neither 

 foliage nor soil around the roots — may be planted 

 in early spring, just as soon as the ground can be 

 dug. 



Everything considered, however, our pot-grown 

 Roses are the most satisfactory of all. They are 

 invariably on their ovm. roots, and, when sent out, 

 they have the advantage of being equipped with 

 strong, fibrous, active roots, which take hold and 

 establish themselves in their new homes almost 

 immediately. They should be set out during the 

 spring or early summer months, after all danger of 

 frost is past, or, to quote a homely expression, 

 after corn-planting time. For planting in the open 

 ground ordinary garden soil will suffice. Select, if 

 possible, the most sheltered and sunny location for 

 planting; avoid the close proximity of large trees, 

 whose dense foliage and extending roots absorb all 

 the life and sustaining nutrition of the soil; young 

 trees and dwarf shrubbery will not be hurtful. 



PRUNING 



ALL Roses are helped by pruning. Roses of 

 the type of Harrison's Yellow, Soleil d'Or, 

 Sir Thomas Lipton, Rugosas, — in fact, all 

 Roses of this "extremely hardy class, — are benefited 

 very much by pruning, more so than any other 

 class. From our own experience, we find that the 

 Hybrid Perpetuals in many varieties, such as Mad. 

 Masson, Mad. Charles Wood, General Jacquemi- 

 not, and others of this type, frequently bloom two 

 and three times during the season when the flowers 



