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The J. Bolgiano Seed Company, Baltimore, Md. 



Garden plants are divided into about four more or less distinct groups. 



Early cabbage plants, kale, onion sets, smooth peas, Irish potatoes, and radishes may be planted two 

 weeks before the average date of the last killing frost. 



Beets, Swiss chard, carrots, lettuce, wrinkled peas, cauliflower, spinach and sweet corn may be planted 

 about the date of the last killing frost. 



Beans, parsnips, salsify, melons, cucumbers, tomato and sweet potato plants may be planted after the 

 last killing frost. 



The heat-loving plants, such as peppers, eggplants, Lima beans, and the squashes, should not be planted 

 in the open until the ground has thoroughly warmed, which will be about four weeks after the last killing 

 frost. 



There are a number of crops, such as snap beans, lettuce, radishes, and beets, that should be planted 

 at intervals in order to insure a continuous supply throughout the season. In the case of snap beans as 

 many as five different plantings may be had in some sections. In the southern part of the United States 

 special attention should be given to the planting of the semi-hardy crops, such as spinach, kale, and cabbage, 

 during the autumn, in order to have a supply throughout the winter. 



By following the table map and the latest safe dates for planting the various crops will mature during 

 average years; however, there may be seasons when the first killing frost in the autumn occurs earlier 

 than usual and some of the later plantings will be lost. The late planting of vegetables prolongs the season 

 of usefulness and is worth a chance. 



Map No. 2. Outline map of the United States, showing zones based on the average date 

 of the first killing frost in the autumn. The latest safe dates for planting vegetables in 

 the autumn are determined by the dates given on this map. 



Preparation Of The Soil 



If the soil has not been previously cultivated, it is best to prepare it in the fall particularly if it is heavy 

 clay, as freezing and the thawing loosens the soil and helps to condition it. 



For spring preparation, work as early as possible. However, more harm than good will result if the soil 

 is too wet. The simplest and most effective test is to take a handful of soil and squeeze it together; if the 

 imprint of the fingers remains in the soil when the hand is opened it is too wet to work. It should crumble 

 between the fingers. 



The best soil is a sandy loam. Heavy clay soil may be improved by adding sand, fresh sifted ashes, 

 stable manure, or leaf mould, before digging. Lime should be used if the soil is damp and soggy, to coun- 

 teract the acid condition of such soil. Only sifted ashes should be used. This tends to make the soil more 

 friable. Fresh hardwood ashes are also good and have excellent fertilizing qualities. Stable manure is best 

 if well rotted, and should contain no sawdust or wood shavings. Leaf mould should only be used after the 

 top three inches, which contains wild weed seed, has been removed. 



