The J. Bolgiano Seed Company, Baltimore, Md. 27 



The hot bed consists of a pit filled with manure covered with a sifted soil over which is placed hot bed 

 sash to protect seedlings from the cold winds and allow the sun to warm and develop them. Hot bed sash of 

 a standard size, 3 f t. x 6 ft. and hot beds may be made in multiples of this as needed. The side walls should 

 be made of board, the back being about one foot high and the front about six inches high. The pit should be 

 about two feet deep, and it is recommended that the inside of the pit be lined with boards, as this tends to 

 retain the heat of the manure for a longer period of time. 



It is best to obtain fresh stable manure for the hot bed, to pile, allow to stand a few days and repile, 

 reheating until the whole is thoroughly and evenly heated. The bed should then be filled with this manure, 

 pressed down firmly and covered with about four inches of a finely sifted top soil. It is best to allow to stand 

 for several days after preparation in order for the temperature to subside. The best way to test this is to 

 place a thermometer about three inches below the surface of the soil, and when the temperature registers 

 about 65 degrees Fahrenheit, the bed is ready. 



Seed may be planted in the same way as described in the use of the seed flat. Watering should be done 

 in the morning. Care should be taken that the seed bed does not overheat by the sun shining full on the 

 glass. Ventilating may be accomplished by raising the sash slightly during the hot part of the day. On 

 cold nights the frame should be given some sort of protection by using a hot bed mat or by the use of straw. 



As the plants develop they may be hardened by removing the sash during the day until they are ready 

 to transplant, when they may be moved to a cold frame. The cold frame is made in exactly the same way as the 

 hot bed without the manure pit, where the plants may be developed until ready for transplanting to the out- 

 door garden. It is possible by thinning the seedlings to use the hot bed as a cold frame without transplanting. 



Transplanting 



Transplanting is best done in cloudy weather during the late afternoon. The seedlings should be care- 

 fully lifted by means of a transplanting trowel and placed in the garden which has been previously prepared 

 by a good cultivation of the soil. The seedling should be placed well into the ground with roots straight 

 down so that when the soil is firmed with the hand a little will go over the top of the soil clinging to the roots. 

 After transplanting give a light watering. Once transplanted do not cultivate until the plants have estab- 

 lished themselves and started to grow. 



Cultivating 



Never cultivate when the plants are wet. Do not forget this. It spreads disease if any is present. 



Always cultivate after a rain as soon as the soil is sufficiently dry. It is too wet to cultivate if a lump of 

 it squeezed in the hand does not crumble but shows the finger impressions. 



Never cultivate too close to the roots of plants. The roots of a plant cover practically the same area as 

 the tops except in vine crops. The primary reason for cultivating is. to loosen the top soil so that moisture 

 is conserved and that air may get to the roots. Elimination of weeds is secondary. 



Watering 



When watering of the garden is necessary due to dry spells, remember that it must be a thorough job 

 or it is injurious. When watering, soak the garden and do not water more than once a week. A fight water- 

 ing will not penetrate the soil to the roots but will only wet the surface, and the roots seeking water tend 

 to develop towards the surface where they may be easily injured by the effects of the sun. 



