HARRISON'S NURSKRJES, BERLIN, MD. 



DIRECTIONS FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 



As the life and well-being of a tree depends very much upon the care and treatment it receives after it 

 leaves the hands of the Nurseryman, and as a large proportion of the trees are lost for the want of 

 proper treatment, we desire to offer a few hints upon the subject of transplanting, pruning, etc. 



Transplanting, 



The proper season for transplanting fruit trees is during the months of October, November and Decem- 

 ber, in the autumn: and February, March and April, in the spring; or at any time after the cessation of growth 

 in autumn until they commence budding in the spring. The autumn is preferred, as giving the ground an 

 opportunity to become firmly settled around the roots during the winter, so that the trees will be ready to 



grow off without interruption at the first impulse of nature 



I """ '"""""""i ♦♦ j n the spring. The ground should be well prepared by at 



It is a waste of material to plant out t least two good ploughings. Let sub-soil plow follow in the 



♦ an orchard unless the ground is well pre- j furrow of the other, loosening up the earth to the depth of 



♦ pared. ♦ twelve to eighteen inches. We consider this much better 

 » . ... ...♦«♦»♦.. j than the usual mode of digging deep holes, which in tena- 

 cious clay will hold water like a basin, to the injury of the 



tree. If the ground is not in good condition it should be made so. Most soils would be benefitted by the appli- 

 cation of a good coat of lime or wood ashes, which should be well mixed with the soil. When the ground is 

 prepared, dig the holes sufficiently large to admit the roots, giving them their natural position as near as prac- 

 ticable. Use the surface soil for filling in, having it first well pulverized. If it is not rich, add good mould to 

 make it so: that found immediately under the leaves iu the woods is very good for the purpose. Avoid deep 

 planting, for it is decidedly injurious to the tree, and when excessive, may cause its death, or a weak and feeble 

 growth. Plant no deeper than it stood in the nursery. 



Preparing the Roots. 



Immediately before planting, all the bruised or wounded parts should be pared off smoothly, to prevent 

 decay, and to enable them to heal over by granulations during the growth of the tree. Then dip them in a bed 

 of mud, which will coat every part evenly, and leave no portion in contact with the air, which, accidentally, 

 might not be reached by the earth in filling the hole. The use of water in settling the earth among the roots 

 will be found eminently serviceable. Let there be a few quarts poured in while the hole is filling up. If the 

 trees have been out of the ground for a long time, and have become dry and shriveled, they should be immersed 

 in water twenty-four hours before planting. Fruit trees sometimes remain with fresh and green branches, 

 but with unswollen buds, till midsummer. Instead of watering such at the roots, let the body and branches 

 be wet every evening regularly, about sundown, with a watering pot; this will, in nearly all cases, bring 

 them into active growth. 



Shortening=in the Branches. 



However carefully trees may be taken up, they will lose portion of their roots, and if the whole top 

 is allowed to remain, the demand will be so great upon the roots that in many cases it will prove fatal to the 

 tree. To obviate this, then it becomes necessary to shorten-in the branches, which should be done at the time 

 of planting, and in a manner to correspond with the loss of roots. If the tree has lost the greater portion 

 of its roots, a severe shortening-in the branches will be necessary: if only a small portion of the roots has 

 been cut off, more moderate pruning will be sufficient. Particular attention to this matter will save many 

 trees that otherwise would perish, 



Mulching. 



This is another very important matter, particularly iu this climate, where we frequently experience 

 severe midsummer drouths. It consists in covering the ground about the tree with coarse litter, straw, leaves, 

 shavings or anything that will shade the ground and prevent evaporation. It should be done earlv in the 

 spring, and will in most cases obviate the necessity of watering the root. We cannot too earnesly insist upon 

 the momentous importance of mulching. We have known orchards planted where more than half the number 

 died when mulching was neglected; while, on the other hand, we have witnessed trees set out under the same 

 circumstances and in like manner and treated similarly, save only that they were well mulched, and not a sin- 

 gle one was lost ; they not only all grew, but made four times the growth of the others. 



Instead of staking, let the earth be banked up around the tree so as to keep it erect until it gets sufficiently 

 rooted to stand without support. 



Pruning. 



We recommend the greatest care and moderation in this operation, believing, as we do, that upon the 

 whole there is more injury done by the use of pruning instruments in unskillful hands than would result 

 from its entire neglect. Some of the objects sought are to diminish the thick growth, to increase the vigor 

 of the branches, to admit light and air, and to form a well- 

 shaped top. We are opposed to the too common practice of 1 ,,, » * '"""""""I 



trimming up trees as high as a man's head, leaving a long, ; "From labor cometh rest." Nothing J 

 naked stem exposed to the ravages of insects and the delete- 1 worth the having is to be had for nothing. ♦ 

 rious effects of sun and wind, as well as other sudden and ex- ; it may not seem work to keep up a good t 

 treme changes of the atmosphere. If a tree be allowed to t orchard, but it will bring itsown reward, ♦ 



branch near the ground, its danger from these ills will be les- » >> >t i > »» 



sened, and it will grow much stronger and faster, bear more 



fruit, which will be more easily gathered, less liable to be blown down, and we may add, better in every way. 

 If watched closely when young and growing, it will never become necessary to takeoff large limbs. Occasional 

 pinching or cropping off of the ends of the branches to give the tree the proper shape, and removing those that 

 .^^^^^^ „^^^^^^^ cross or crowd each other, will be all that will be needed by 



;'" HtiMMittiMiMMMM •••••♦ mos t trees. Peach trees would be greatly benefitted by an 



♦ Prune fruit trees, as too large and too t annual shortening-in of the branches, say one-half of the pre- 

 X thick heads are to be avoided. | vious year's growth ; this may be done at any time after the 

 t..., ...... . . .MmM . M.M.M.n j fall of the leaf until the buds commence swelling in the spring. 



Dwarf pears also need careful attention annually, to keep 

 them in shape, by cutting back the rampant and straggling shoots: they should be pruned down instead of up, 

 never allowing them to grow high, 01 the top will become too heavy for the roots, and increase the danger of 

 blowing down. 



Cultivating. 



When the transplautiug is finished, many persons are under the impression that their work is done, 

 and they can do nothing more for the tree. But this is a very mistaken idea. It is a very important matter 



