PETER HENDERSON & CO., NEW YORK.— BULBS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING. 



.'*§»**'€ 



''N A TUP A I lyiNfl" HARDY BULBS 



1 ^ -TV 1 KJ ly/VlvlZ-^li 1 VJ FOR PERMANENT EFFECTS IN 



LAWNS AND GARDENS. 



Beautiful and permanent effects may be obtained by planting hardy 

 bulbs in groups and masses on the lawn, in shady nooks, where they find a 

 congenial and permanent home, tlowering abundantly in their season, and 

 requiring little or no care after being planted. This mode of planting is 

 termed " naturalizing," and is now generally followed in Europe. It adds a 

 charm to tangled and half-wild places, heightens the natural effects of light 

 and shade, and imparts a natural grace and beauty to the scene. The 

 following are admirably adapted for this purpose : 



Anemones, Apennina, Blanda 

 and Hepatica. Partial shade. 



Allium IXoly. Open and sunny 

 position. 



Bulbocodium. Partial shade. 



Camassia, Shady woods. 



Chionodoxa. Open or shady banks. 



Colchicum. Open and sunny posi- 

 tion. 



Crocus. Open ayid sunny places. 



Eranthis (Winter Aconite). 

 Partial shade, under trees, etc. 



Erjrtlironium. Partial shade. 



Grape and Featber Hyacinths. 

 Partial. 



Hemerocallis. Open, sunny, moist. 



Hyacinth. Sheltered but open. 



Iris Germ.anica. Moist rich banks. 



Iris Kaempferi. 



etc. 



Banks of streams. 



Jonquils. Open and sunny. 

 Iiiliums. Various sorts. Open and 

 sunny position. 



Iiily of the Valley. Shady woods. 

 Narcissus (Daffodil). Open or 



shady. 

 Fseonias. Open and sunny. 

 Puschkinia. Partial shade. 

 Scillas. Shady banks and woods. 

 Snowdrops. Partial shade, under 



trees. 

 Snowflakes. Open or partial. 

 Sternbergias. Open and sunny. 

 Triteleia. Open and sunny. 

 Trillium. Shady woods. 

 Tulips. Open and sunny. 

 Zephyranthes. Open and sunny. 



BULBS FOR THE WINDOW GARDEN. 



There is no class of plants that is more important or that gives more satis- 

 faction for the window garden than those grown from bulbs. They are the 

 most easily grown of all, and are sure to bloom abundantly. There is nothing 

 more cheering or pleasant than a few Hyacinths, Tulips, Freesias, Jonquils or 

 other bulbs displaying their gorgeous colors and delightful fragrance during 

 the dull months of winter. They should be potted as soon as received and 

 placed to become thoroughly rooted, as described under "Forcing Bulbs." 

 Interesting and beautiful objects for the window garden may be produced by 

 growing Hyacinths in glass and by planting Crocuses or Lily of the Valley in 

 the ornamental styles of pots made specially for the purpose, and pierced with 

 holes to allow the shoots to escape and the flowers to expand. Tbe following 

 are of easy management, and will be found exceedingly attractive for the 

 window garden during winter and spring: 



Achinienes, Alliums (omitting the hardy sorts), Amaryllis, Anem- 

 ones (omitting the hardy sorts), Anomatheca, Arums, Babiaua, 

 Brodiasa, Bulbocodium, Callas, Calochortus, Chionodoxa, Crocus, 

 Cyclamens, Freesia, JPritillaria, Gloxinias, Hyacinths, Iris 



(Spanish), Ixias, Jon- 

 quil, Iiachenalia, Iiily 

 of the Valley, Iiiliums 

 Candidum and Har- 

 risii, Narcissus, 

 Nerine, Ornithoga- 

 Itim, Oxalis, Schizos- 

 tylis.ScillaPeruviana, 

 Sparaxis, Triteleia, 

 Tritonia, Tropaeolum, 

 Tulips (Early), Vallota. 



FORCINQ BULBS. 



FOR WINTER FLOWERING IN THE CONSERVATORY OR GREENHOUSE. 



There is no class of plants that gives the satisfaction and profusion of bloom in "winter 

 forcing" that bulbs do, and with so little skill and care give such magnificent results. They 

 occupy no space in the conservatory or window excepting when in the full wealth of bud and 

 bloom, and then the effect of their incomparable flowers and rich gorgeous colors is matchless. 

 As the proijer way to treat them is to pot the bulbs in the autumn, or if for cutting only they may 

 be planted an inch or two apart in shallow boxes about four inches deep ; in either case plunge 

 them in cold frames or in the open ground and cover with leaves, tan bark or something similar, 

 and leave them until they become well rooted, which will be in about two months' time; they can 

 then be brought in and the warmth and light of the conservatory or window will " force " them 

 to bloom in two or three weeks' time. A continuous display of bloom may be enjoyed during the 

 entire winter and spring by bringing in a few pots at intervals of two to three weeks. The following 

 are among the best for forcing : 



Alliums Neapolitanuiu and Grandiflorum, Anemone Fulgfens, Callas, Freesias, 

 Gladiolus Bride, Heleborus, Roman, Italian and Dutch Hyacinths, Scarlet Ixias, 

 Campernelle Jonquils, Lily of the Valley Pips, Easter Iiiliums Harrisii, 

 Candidum and Iionglflorum, Narcissus, Ornithogalum, Astilbes, Spanish Iris, 

 Sing'le Early Tulips, Double Early Tulips. 



