Garden S 



en ouccess 



STARTING PLANTS INDOORS— After firming the soil in the seed box, 

 sow the seed thinly in rows which may be marked with a stick, as shown. 

 The general rule for depth of planting is four times the diameter of the 

 seeds. Very fine seeds, such as petunia, should be sown on top and 

 merely pressed into the soil. 



Thin the seedlings after they come up if the stand is thick. 



The remaining plants will be stronger and sturdier if they 



have plenty of room to grow. 



PREPARING THE SOIL 



A rich sandy loam is well adapted to gardening. Other kinds of soil 

 are suitable, but stiff clays need plenty of fibrous material and must be 

 thoroughly broken up. Sandy soils generally need additional fertilizing. 



When fertilizing is needed, well rotted stable manure is always 

 beneficial, but it should be supplemented by commercial fertilizer con- 

 taining a good percentage of phosphate and potash. Wood ashes may 

 be applied liberally to most soils. For general use where manure is not 

 available, a commercial fertilizer containing 4 per cent nitrates, 12 per 

 cent phosphate, and 4 to 6 per cent potash, is usually best. Apply at 

 the rate of about 4 pounds to the square rod. 



Work the soil deeply and make the top three or four inches as fine 

 and loose as possible. Remember that much weed killing can be done 

 by hoeing or raking just before planting. Do not work clay soils when 

 they are wet enough to stick to hoe or spade. 



PLANTING 



When planting seed in the open groimd, avoid disappointment and 

 possible failure by means of: 



First — A constant and correct degree of moisture. The soil should 

 always be moist, but never wet when avoidable. To retain moisture 

 after planting, cover seed immediately with fine freshly prepared earth 

 and press it down firmly and smoothly. This firming of the soil brings 

 the particles of earth into close contact with the seeds, prevents drying 

 out, and facilitates growth. 



Second — The proper degree of heat. This is secured by planting 

 when the atmospheric and soil temperatures are most favorable for 

 germination of kind of seed that is to be planted. The best temperature 



for each sort may be learned from careful study of our cultural 

 directions and by inquiry among the successful gardeners in your 

 neighborhood. 



Third — Covering the seed at the right depth. This varies with 

 different kinds of seeds and conditions of soil and can be learned only 

 through practical experience. 



Fourth — Proper condition of the soil. It must be loose and soft so 

 that the tender stems of seedlings can easily emerge and the young 

 roots quickly find plant food. This is usually secured by careful 

 preparation of the soil and by not planting fine seeds when the ground 

 is wet. 



CULTIVATING 



Stirring the surface soil during the period of growth kills weeds, 

 loosens the ground so as to encourage root development, allows air 

 to enter, and helps to conserve moisture. Cultivation may be deep 

 at first, but as the plants grow it should be more shallow to avoid 

 injiu-y to the roots. 



STARTING PLANTS INDOORS 



Seedling plants may be grown successfully in spring in shallow- 

 boxes of soil placed in south or east windows. 



The preparation of the seed box is simple but it needs care. First, 

 is the question of drainage. The seed box, whether it is a cigar box 

 or larger flat box, needs to have holes bored in the bottom,— about 

 six inches apart in the larger boxes and about three inches apart in 

 one of cigar box size. Over the bottom of the box spread pieces of 

 broken flower pots or crockery, or small pebbles, then coarser soil, 

 and last of all finely sifted garden soil. 



Firm the soil and sow the seed thinly in rows. The general rule 

 for depth of sowing is about four times the diameter of the seeds. 



Thin sowing is economy. The tiny plants crowd each other if 

 planted too thickly. 



Cover the seed box with, a damp cloth or piece of paper until germi- 

 nation starts and place a pane of glass over the top. Remove the paper 

 or cloth as soon as the first tiny sprouts break through the soil. Wipe 

 off the glass when water collects on it from evaporation. This will 

 prevent moisture from dripping on the little plants and perhaps causing 

 "damping off." 



During the day prop up one edge of the covering glass for ventilation. 

 Keep the seed box moist but not wet or water-logged. The best way 

 to water is from beneath by setting the seed box in a pan of water or in 

 shallow water in a sink. 



HOTBEDS 



You can gain time and have early vegetables at small cost by means 

 of a hotbed. The construction is simple, and the expense so shght that 

 any gardener can provide one for himself. 



In using a hotbed the essentials for success are: 



1. Steady, uniform heat and moisture. 



2. Keeping the soil a few degrees warmer than the air above it. 



3. Careful "hardening off" before transplanting to the open air by 

 gradual exposure to cooler temperature and by diminishing the supply 

 of water. 



The greatest difficulty in accomplishing these three essentials, prob- 

 ably, is overheating the air in bright sunshine. Great care and watch- 

 fulness will be necessary to avoid it. 



Without experience one would scarcely befieve how quickly the tem- 

 perature in a well built hotbed will rise to 90 or 100 degrees upon a still, 

 sunny day, even when the temperature outside is far below freezing; or 

 how quickly the temperature will fall to that outside, if upon a windy, 

 cloudy day the sash is left open ever so little. A rush of cold air driven 

 over the plants is far more injurious than the same temperature when 

 the air is still. Again, in cloudy weather, a bed can go several days with- 

 out watering, but will dry up in an hour when open on a sunny day. 



