FRUIT AND ORNAMENTAL NURSERY STOCK 



worth while to plant them. To show our firm belief 

 in fillers, we are using them in our own commercial 

 orchards and would plant no other way. (See 

 diagrams.) 



NUMBER OF TREES OR PLANTS TO AN 



ACRE. The following table will show how many 



trees or plants are required for an acre at any 



distance apart: Square Triangular 



Method Method 



40 feet apart 27 trees 31 trees 



35 feet apart 35 trees 40 trees 



30 feet apart 50 trees 55 trees 



25 feet apart 70 trees 80 trees 



20 feet apart 110 trees 125 trees 



18 feet apart 135 trees 155 trees 



15 feet apart 195 trees 225 trees 



12 feet apart 305 trees 350 trees 



10 feet apart 435 trees 505 trees 



8 feet apart 680 trees 775 trees 



6 feet apart 1,210 trees 1,600 trees 



5 feet apart 1,745 trees 2,010 trees 



4 feet apart 2,722 trees 3,145 trees 



3 feet apart 4,840 trees 5,590 trees 



2 feet apart 10,890 trees 12,575 trees 



1 foot apart 43,560 trees 50,300 trees 



Trees sometimes can be planted to advantage 

 farther apart one way than another. To do this, 

 you have to work out the plan for your own orchards. 

 This plan works best on steep hills. The rows should 

 follow the lines of the hill to make driving easier. 

 No rules can be laid down for hillside arrangement. 

 Use some modification of the plans given here. 

 (See diagrams.) 



DISTANCES FOR PLANTING. Avoid setting 

 permanent trees too close together. They feed over 

 a wide area if they have the opportunity, and they 

 are the better for it. Our plan is to set three peach 

 trees to one standard apple. Where peach trees 

 are used as fillers, we get from fifty to two hundred 

 trees on an acre. Some varieties are naturally 

 smaller growers than others, and can be planted 

 closer; also the section has something to do with it. 

 For instance, trees grow bigger in Pennsylvania or 

 Delaware than in M ichigan or the West. 

 The system of pruning adopted, as well 

 as the price of land, has something to do 

 with the distance the trees should be 

 apart. Leave plenty of room for spray- 

 ing, cultivating, driving about with 

 wagons, etc. Keep the trees far enough 

 away from boundary fences, and never 

 plant them closer than 40 feet (100 feet is 

 better) to thick woods or an evergreen 

 windbreak. Privet needs only 20 feet, 

 and in most sections is as good as any 

 .known plant for windbreaks. Fillers, of 

 course, alter the distances given, as they 

 merely occupy the ground before the 

 permanent trees get big enough. The 

 following gives the shortest distances at 

 which permanent trees should be set. 



Permanent apple trees need 30, 40 or 

 50 feet between each other, depending 

 on the various conditions named above 

 (dwarfs 10 to 15); pears 20, 25 to 30; 

 quinces 15 to 18; peaches 13, 18, 21 

 to 25 feet; plums 15, 20 to 25 feet; sour 

 cherries the same as peaches, and sweet 

 cherries the same as pears (in some 

 sections 40 to 50 feet); grapes should 

 be put 6 by 8 feet to 8 by 10 feet; 

 strawberries from 18 inches each way 

 to 1 by 4 feet; raspberries from 3 by 

 6 to 5 by 8 feet ; and blackberries from 

 4 by 7 to 6 by 9 feet. 



FILLERS. If you think you will not use your 

 trees right while they are growing, or that you will 

 lack the determination to cut out the nicely bearing 

 fillers when they are about twelve years old, do 

 not plant fillers. But no business farmer will think 

 of going to the expense of growing a first-class 

 apple or pear orchard without planting early- 

 bearing sorts of these same fruits, or of peaches or 

 strawberries, between his permanent trees. To 

 use fillers makes the orchard a paying investment 

 in a few years. (See planting diagrams.) 



PRUNING PEACH TREES AFTER PLANTING. 



All peach trees are one year old from bud, and 

 when set in the fall all bruised roots should be 

 removed; but we prefer leaving the limbs and top 

 on the tree until spring. When growth starts, prune 

 the peach trees to a whip, and cut them back to 

 whatever height you desire your trees headed. We 

 prefer heads not higher than 18 inches. In one of 

 our orchards the trees are headed at 12 inches. 

 (See illustrations.) 



PRUNING ONE-YEAR APPLE TREES AFTER 

 PLANTING. Prune off all bruised roots with a 

 smooth cut on a slant that leaves the face down. 

 Leave on all the limbs until spring, and when 

 growth starts, if the tree is a whip, simply cut it off 

 at the height which you desire the head to be. We 

 would prefer this to be not more than 18 inches 

 from the ground. If the tree is more or less branched, 

 and the head already formed, prune the side branches 

 with regard to the frame of the future head, leaving 

 sticks 4 to 6 inches in length and cut off the top. 

 The total height should be about 18 inches. We 

 do not advise pruning the branches or cutting back 

 the top until spring for best success. (See illus- 

 trations.) 



PRUNING TWO-YEAR APPLE, PEAR AND 

 CHERRY TREES AFTER PLANTING. With two- 

 year apple trees, especially of first grade, the shape 

 of the tree usually has been fixed by the nursery- 

 man, but it is necessary in planting to remove all 



York Imperial Apple (See page 21) 



