HARRISON'S NURSERIES, BERLIN, MD, 



"CAREFUL PACKERS" 



DIRECTIONS FOR TRANSPLANTING, ETC. 



Our men have had 

 years of experience, 

 and we try to have 

 each man to pride 

 himself to see who 

 can do up the best 

 package in the best 

 manner that will 

 reach the custom- 

 er satisfactorily, so 

 much so we offer 

 premiums to the 

 one that is most 

 successful in this 

 direction. Our 

 packing-house is 

 well equipped with 

 water supply, trees 

 are dipped in mud 

 or grout, roots are 

 carefully packed, 

 bales are securely 

 wrapped, boxes 

 carefully nailed and 

 strapped and are 

 pushed directly on 

 rollers from the 

 p a c k i n g-house to 

 the car ; no hauling 

 is required, and 

 hence no exposure 

 to the stock. 



Received peach trees in good con- 

 dition; am ■well pleased with them 

 as they are thrifty and fresh looking. 

 Ohio, April 16,1906. David James. 



As the life and well-being of a tree depends very much upon the care and treatment it receives after 

 it leaves the hands of the Nurseryman, and as a large proportion of the trees are lost for the want of 

 proper treatment, we desire to offer a few hints upon the subject of transplanting, pruning, etc. 



TRANSPLANTING. 



The proper season for transplanting fruit trees is during the months of October, November and 

 December, in the autumn, and February, March and April, in the spring, or at any time after the cessa- 

 tion of growth in autumn until they commence budding in the spring. The autumn is preferred, as giv- 

 ing the ground an opportunity to become firmly settled around the roots during the winter, so that the 

 #%/v*>^>^^Ni^N^NA^>^\^%^s^>./>i/\^\i/'s^^^^^v^">^>i^>-'^^\ trees will be ready to grow off without interruption at the first 

 S , . , \ impulse of nature in the spring. The ground should be well pre- 



C Received peach trees m good con- ? pared by at least two good ploughings. Let subsoil plow follow 



in .the furrow of the other, loosening up the earth to the depth 

 of twelve to eighteen inches. We consider this much better than 

 the usual mode of digging deep holes, which in tenacious clay 

 will hold Water like a basin, to the injury of the tree. If the 

 ground is not in good condition, it should be made So. Most soils would be benefited by the application 

 of a good coat of lime or wood ashes, which should be well mixed with the soil. When the ground is pre- 

 pared, dig the holes sufficiently large to admit the roots, giving them their natural position as near as 

 practicable. Use the surface soil for filling in, having it first well pulverized. If it is not rich, add good 

 mould to make it so. That found immediately under the leaves in the woods is very good for the purpose. 

 Avoid deep planting, for it is decidedly injurious to the tree, and when excessive may cause its death or a 

 weak and feeble growth. Plant no deeper than it stood in the nursery. 



PREPARING THE ROOTS. 



Immediately before planting all the bruised or wounded parts should be pared off smoothly, to prevent 

 decay and to enable them to heal over by granulations during the growth of the tree. Then dip them in 

 a bed of mud, which will coat every part evenly and leave no portion in contact with the air, which, acci- 

 dentally, might not be reached by the earth in filling the hole. The use of water in settling the earth 

 among the roots will be found eminently serviceable. Let there be a few quarts poured in while the hole 

 is filling up. If the trees have been out of the ground for a long time, and have become dry and shriv- 

 eled, they should be immersed in water twenty-four hours before planting. Fruit trees sometimes remain 

 with fresh and green branches, but with unswollen buds, till midsummer. Instead of watering such at the 

 roots, let the body and branches be wet every evening regularly, about sundown, with a watering pot. 

 This will, in nearly all cases, bring them into active growth. 



SHORTENING-ICT THE BRANCHES. 



However carefully trees may be taken up they will lose a portion of their roots, and if the whole top 

 is allowed to remain the demand will be so great upon the roots that in many cases it will prove fatal to 

 the tree. To obviate this, then, it becomes necessary to shorten-in the branches, which should be done 

 at the time of planting, and in a manner to correspond with the loss of roots. If the tree has lost the 

 greater portion of its roots, a severe shortening-in the branches will be necessary; if only a small portion 

 of the roots has been cut off, more moderate pruning will be sufficient. Particular attention to this mat- 

 ter will save many trees that otherwise would perish. 



MULCHING. 



This is another very important matter, particularly in this climate, where we frequently experience 

 severe midsummer drouths. It consists in covering the ground about the tree with coarse litter, straw, 

 leaves, shavings or anything that will shade the ground and prevent evaporation. It should be done 

 early in the spring, and will in most cases obviate the necessity of watering the root. We cannot too 

 earnestly insist upon the momentous importance of mulching. We have known orchards planted where 

 more than half the number died when mulching was neglected; while, on the other hand, we have wit- 

 nessed trees set out under the same circumstances and in like manner and treated similarly, save only 

 that they were well mulched, and not a single one was lost; they not only all grew, but made four times 

 the growth of the otners. Instead of staking, let the earth be banked up around the tree so as to keep it 

 erect until it gets sufHciently rooted to stand without support. 



