Growing Strawberries 



strawberries are one of the easiest fruits to grow. Good plants set at tlie proper season 

 in good soil will respond with ordinary care and cultivation. There is nothing complicated 

 about growing strawberries, and by following these easy instructions the l>eginner can be sui-e 

 of good results. Rayner's certified stock is further assurance of success. 



Where strawberries can be grown: In every state 

 of the union strawberries are f;rown at least to 

 some extent. They are <iuite hardy and will give 

 good results in any reasonably fertile soil that is 

 fairly well drained. Like other fruit, strawberries 

 will not produce a good crop in a shady location. 



Soil and fertilizer: A good soil for strawberries 

 is one that is slightly acid, in good condition, and 

 reasonably free of weed seed. Newly plowed pas- 

 ture land or sod often gives poor results but re- 

 cently cleared woodland is excellent. If good soil 

 is properly prepared it can be successfully replant- 

 ed to strawberries a year after an old planting was 

 plowed up. Important requirements for straw- 

 berries are high organic matter and higli fertility. 

 Well rotted barnyard manure is one of the best 

 materials for good strawberry growth but other 

 organic matter is very hel])ful. Well rotted poul- 

 try manure can be used but may cause plant in- 

 jury and also increases the weed problem. It is 

 usually best to apply from 1,000 to 1,500 lbs. per 

 acre of a 10-6-4 or 8-8-8 fertilizer. This is equiva- 

 lent to abv)ut 1 pound i)er 40 sq. ft. of strawberry 

 row. Plow under about 1/8 of the total fertilizer 

 2 or 3 weeks before planting and appl.v the rest as 

 side or top dressings during the growing season. 

 An application in late August or early September 

 is very important since this is the time fruit buds 

 are develoi)ed for the n<'xt oroi>. In general it is 

 best not to apply much fertilizer to strawberry 

 beds in early spring. This may cause excess vine 

 growtli and decreased fruit production. 



When to plant: Early spring is the best time in 

 most sections but in areas of the north it is some- 

 times b(-st to wait until May or even early .Tune 

 wlien tlie soil is in better condition. With Ray- 

 iirr's dormant j)lants tliere is a definite trend to- 

 ward sninmcr i)lanfng and with irrigation this is 

 often very successful. However in cold climates 

 we do not recommend planting after the middle of 

 •Inly. Plants set in late summer or fall are often 

 injured or killed by cold weather. 



IIow to plant: It is important not to set the plant 

 too deej) or too shallow. Do not clip the roots but 

 sijread them out full length and press dirt around 

 the i)l;int so that the roots are firmly anchored in 

 the soil. For best results we recommend use of a 

 soluble fertilizer as a transplanting solution. About 

 a pint of solution sliould be poured around each 

 plant when it is put in the hole. A good planting 

 distance is 2 ft. apart in the row witht 4 ft. be- 

 tween rows. Sliglitly narrow fruiting beds will 

 usually have better yields and higher quality than 

 beds that are unusually thick. 



Cure of the plants: A few weeks after straw- 



l)erri('s are planted they will produce blossoms. 

 For the regular matted-row system It Is best to 

 remove these blooms since the plants will make 

 l»etter growth. Hoeing and cultivation are neces- 

 sary i)ractices for weed control but much benefit 

 (•:in be obtained by use of a good weed-killer. We 

 recommend Sesone (Crag 1 Herbicide). Other her- 

 bicide's such as Chloro I.P.C. and Sinox are also 

 used to control weeds in strawberries. Consult 

 your state agricultural authorities for recommen- 

 dations. We use geese in our fields for weed con- 

 trol: about two or three per acre will do a good 

 job on young grass and weeds. 



In northern states it is important to mulch 

 strawberries for prevention of winter injury. 

 Straw, hay or marsh grass are the best materials 

 l)ut wood shavings, pine needles, leaves, shredded 

 corn stalks, etc. can be used. The important point 

 to remember is that tlie material must not pack 

 tightly since it could smother the plants. It should 

 I)e applied in the fall when the temijcrature first 

 reaches 20° F and used so as to cover the plants to 

 a depth of three to four inches. About three to six 

 tons of hay or straw ))er acre is needed. As soon 

 ns new strawberry leaves begin to grow in the 



Plants Required Per Acre 



Plants required 



)er 



acre at 



vari( 



us 



plantii 



distances : 













Rows I)i 



^ta 



nee in Row 



Pl 



Hit 



s per Ac 



314 feet apart 





18 inches 







8,325 



31/2 feet apart 





24 inches 







0,225 



31/2 feet apart 





30 inches 







5,000 



4 feet apart 





15 inches 







8,750 



4 feet apart 





18 inches 







7,300 



4 feet apart 





24 inches 







5 425 



4 feet apart 





30 inches 







4.375 



spring the mulch should be removed so that only 

 about an inch remains. The rest should be kept 

 between the beds where it will help keep the ber- 

 ries clean and free of rot. Even in the south many 

 berries are mulched to help keep them free of dirt 

 and decay. 



Frost damage to strawberries can be greatly re- 

 duced by spreading the mulch over the beds or by 

 use of overhead irrigation. If one tenth inch of 

 water is applied each hour the temperature is below 

 32 "F the blossoms will not be damaged. 



Control of Diseases and Insects: For prevention 

 of damage from grubs, wireworms, root ai)hids and 

 other soil insects we recommend 10 lbs. of actual 

 chlordane per acre. We use it on all our fields and 

 find that it does a wonderful job. Si)ittle-bugs may 

 make a slimy froth on stems and leaves of straw- 

 berries; they can be controlled by Malathion and 

 other insecticides. Sometimes berry rot can be 

 quite a problem in strawberries. It can be con- 

 trolled witht Captan fungicide and proper cultural 

 practices that prevent excessive vine growth. 



If tlie red stele root disease is a j)rol)lem it can 

 be controlled by using some of tlie resistant va- 

 rieties we offer. Sometimes a root disease known 

 as Verticillium wilt will attack strawberries that 

 are grown in land i)reviously planted to potatoes or 

 tomatoes. Vermilion, Catskill. Surecrop and Prem- 

 ier are fairly resistant to this trouble. 



For further information concerning strawberry 

 production write to your state agricultural exi)eri- 

 ment stat'on. Or for 15 cents you can obtain Far- 

 mers' Bulletin # 1208 entitled "Strawberry Culture- 

 Eastern United States." Send to Superintendent of 

 Documents, U.S. Govt. Printing Ofl^ce, Washington 

 25. D. C. 



BUY RAYNER'S PLANTS AND YOU BUY THE BEST 



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