The W. F. Allen Co., Salisbury, Md. 9 



Setting the Plants. Where commercial fertilizer is to be used under the 

 plants (see p. 10) rows should be run out 3 or 4 inches deep with a one-horse 

 plow, the fertilizer drilled into these rows and thoroughly worked in. Then 

 the soil should be thrown back into these furrows and again leveled off. 

 Where considerable acreages are planted, a horse drawn transplanter such 

 as is used for sweet potatoes, tomatoes, tobacco, etc., is often used. To do a 

 good job this way, however, requires skill and experience, if the crowns of 

 the plants are to be left at the proper level with the roots extending straight 

 into the ground and not set on a slant oftentimes near the surface of ground. 

 A spade, trowel or dibble are the tools most often used in setting the plants. 

 Where one of these is used, they are set down the prepared row with the 

 roots of the plants spread out as much as possible and the bud of the plant 

 just at the surface of the ground. It is also important to press the ground 

 firmly against the roots and to see that enough dirt is filled in near the 

 crown of the plant so that the top of the roots will not be left exposed. 

 Where the fertilizer is not put under the plants, the rows can merely be laid 

 off with a marker and the plants set by any of the methods suggested down 

 the marked row instead of down the fertilized row. 



Clipping the roots is not necessary nor helpful if you can get the roots of 

 the plants in the soil without being doubled up. It is better, however, to clip 

 the roots somewhat than to have them doubled up in the ground. Where a 

 horse-drawn transplanter is used, it is probably better to clip the roots any 

 way to expedite handling the plants, unless they are very small. 



TIME TO SET PLANTS 



Elarly Spring is the logical, natural, most successful and satis- 

 factory time to set Strawberry plants. So don't neglect setting 

 some plants this Spring thinking you can make it up by early 

 Fall planting. It can't be done. 



How early? Just as soon as weather permits getting ground ready. In 

 the South, February and March and early April. In the Middle States, 

 March and April. In the Northern States, April. 



Be sure to order early enough so that plants can be right at hand as soon 

 as your ground is ready. Early setting pays big — the plants start quicker, 

 grow better and make better beds than plants set late. 



When a plant grower in the latitude of New York or Massachusetts can 

 dig plants, berry growers in those sections should be setting their plants. 

 This is a big advantage we can give growers in those latitudes. We can dig 

 and ship plants earlier and have them right at hand for early planting. 



Cultivation and Training. The plants should be cultivated and hoed soon 

 after they have started growth after being set out. It is important at the 

 first hoeing to uncover the buds of any plants which might have been planted 

 too deep. If this is not done very early, these plants will not recover in time 

 to amount to anything, even though they might live along all summer. Culti- 

 vate often enough to keep the surface of the ground from becoming crusted 

 and to keep down the grass and weeds. 



We believe in the well-spaced matted row system of training strawber- 

 ries, and with this system the first runners from the plants should be encour- 

 aged to take root, forming from 10 to 20 or even more young plants from 

 each plant set, paying some attention as the hoeing is done to see that the 



