8 I'HE DINGEB & CONARD COMPANY'S 



3Iildew. — When plants suddenly become covered with a whitish-looking mould or dust, the 

 disease is known as Mildew. Unless a very severe attack it will not probably kill them, but only 

 retard their growth. It is believed to be induced by atmospheric causes, as sudden changes of 

 temperature or moisture. For out-door plants, a thorough stirring of the soil, with a view to en- 

 courage strong growth, is probably the best thing that can be done. In-doors the same treatment, 

 with the addition of a fine dusting of flour of sulphur over the whole plant. Sulphur is thought 

 to be an antidote to the growth of fungus, of which the white mould referred to is one form. 



The Mealy Bug is^not apt to trouble Eoses much, but is sometimes very injurious to other 

 house plants. It nestles closely at the base of the leaves and branches, and resembles at first sight 

 a speck of white cotton, but on close examination proves to be a repulsive looking bug covered 

 with a white powder. He is rather fond of Tobacco and other poisons, but does not like Alcohol. 

 So this is the thing to give Mm. It can be put on with a feather or small brush, and he can be 

 removed with a pin or needle. 



Red Spider is a very minute insect, first appearing on the underside of the leaves, and 

 though difficult to see, its effects are quickly noticeable by the browned or deadened appearance 

 of the leaves. It flourishes best in a hot, dry atmosphere, either in-doors or out ; moisture is its 

 greatest enemy. Sprinkle or wash your plants frequently, taking care to wash the underside of the 

 leaves thoroughly, and you will not be troubled with Red Spider. In bad attacks it may be neces- 

 sary to sponge the leaves daily with warm water until the pest is thoroughly destroyed. 



The Thi'ip is very destructive to Eoses in some sections of the West ; it is a small hopper, 

 varying in color from black to brown, and is found on the underside of the leaves. The best 

 remedy is said to be a thorough wetting with a strong suds of whale-oil soap, or soap and salt, or 

 very strong Tobacco tea, taking care to wet thoroughly the underside of the leaves. We presume 

 that a teaspoonful of Hellebore, or Paris Green dissolved in a pail of water and applied in the 

 same way, would be equally effective. 



THE PROPER DISTANCE FOR PLANTING. 



When the Ever-Blooming Eoses are planted in beds or masses, and the best effect for the pres- 

 ent season is desired, they may be set only 10 or 12 inches apart each way, but if intended to re- 

 main over year they should have a little more room. 



Hybrid Perpetual and Moss Roses require more room than the Ever-Blooming sorts and 

 may be set from ly^ to 2 feet apart each way. For HEDG-ES, plant 1 foot apart in a single line, 

 and cut the plants back to a regular height every Spring. 



Hardy Climbing Roses are mostly of strong growth, and are usually planted in single rows, 

 and from 2 to 4 feet apart, according to circumstances. 



In California and the Southern States, Eoses grow much larger than in other sections, and 

 should not be planted so closely. Single plants frequently form moderate sized trees, and of 

 course require much more room than they do in the IS'orthern and Middle States. 



WINTER PROTECTION OF ROSES. 



Winter Protection is not so important a matter as formerly. The HYBRID PERPETUAL, 

 MOSS A:N'D climbing- roses, being mostly hardy, require but little protection, and all classes 

 of Eoses are now furnished so cheaply, that most people think it pays better to get new plants 

 every year than to take much trouble in trying to keep tender sorts over, ESPECIALLY AS IT 

 IS FOUND THAT FRESH YOUNG PLANTS FREQUENTLY GIYE MORE FLOWERS 

 AND BETTER SATISFACTION THAN OLD ONES WINTERED OYER. We, however, 

 give the best methods for Winter protection, so that our friends can adopt any plan they prefer. 



Fall Treatment. — In the Fall, the Rose beds should have a good dressing of stable manure 

 or any fertilizing material that is convenient, the Winter rains will carry the strength down to 

 the roots, and the remaining matter makes a nice mulch, which in many places is all the protec- 

 tion that is necessary. In very cold locaUties it is a good plan to cover the beds all over with 

 old sods, fresh earth, or coal ashes, from three to six inches deep. 



WTiere the Winters are not very severe tender Roses may be nicely covered with clean Rj^e 

 straw, forest leaves, or Evergreen branches, but care must be taken not to put it on too thick ; 

 the covering should permit considerable circulation of air, and should not retain water ; and 

 nothing should be used that will ferment, heat or rot. The object of covering is not to keep the 

 plants warm, but to break the force of sudden and violent changes, cold, drying winds, &c. 



Do not Cover too soon. — Whatever covering is used, it should not be put on till late in the 

 season, when the plants are well matured and severe weather close at hand ; moderate freezing 

 i.s not injurious. 



