NEW GUIDE TO ROSE CULTURE. 



hot and the ground dry continue to water at in- 

 tervals, and throw some newspapers over them 

 during the extreme heat of the day to shield from 

 the effects of the sun until they become somewhat 

 established. Do not plant if the ground is wet, 

 as it will afterwards bake around the roots and 

 interfere with their growth. If, for this or other 

 reasons, it is not desirable or convenient to plant 

 at once, place the box in the cellar or some other 

 moderately warm place, remove the cover, set the 

 plants upright to give them air and water freely 

 from time to time. In this way they may be kept 

 fresh for some time. Should they have a withered 

 appearance, caused by some unusual delay while 

 in transit (which seldom occurs), soak them in 

 lukewarm water for an hour or so before planting 

 to restore their vitality. If any branches or twigs 

 are broken the plant is nowise injured ; cut out 

 the broken parts and new growth will shortly ap- 

 pear. The plants received from our establishment 

 have been grown in a warm temperature, and 

 therefore should not be exposed to extreme cold. 

 The most favorable season for planting in most 

 localities is during the Spring, about the time 

 when the work of Spring gardening is being 

 prosecuted. Of course, this refers more especially 

 to those sections of the country where, owing to 

 prolonged and severe Winters, Fall planting is 

 attended with considerable risk. In our more 

 southern States, and where mild Winters usually 

 prevail, many prefer to plant in the Fall. 



QuIHuatJOr;. I The soil around the plants should 



' be kept loose and free from weeds 



and grass to insure their vigorous growth. The 

 moisture supplied by the rain and dew is ordi- 

 narily sufficient, but during protracted droughts 

 the plants should be watered daily in the evening. 

 When the dust begins to accumulate and the grass 

 has a parched appearance it may be taken as an 

 indication that the soil is becoming dry, and the 

 supply of water should be regulated accordingly. 

 Use water judiciously ; too much will be more or 



less injurious. 



J * * 



* 



PrUF^i^O I No absolute rule can be laid down 



■ ' for the guidance of the inex- 

 perienced ; plants differ so with respect to con- 

 stitution and habits of growth. Many are neat 

 and compact, requiring little or no attention ; 

 others are vigorous and straggling, sending out 

 long shoots which tend to outrun the limits as- 

 signed them, giving to the bush an unsightly 

 appearance. Pruning should be regulated some- 

 what as regards the habits of growth of the dif- 

 ferent varieties under cultivation. The most 

 persistent growers may be cut back each Spring 

 or Fall from one-half to two-thirds the last season's 

 growth. Trim so as to give the shrub a well- 

 balanced, shapely appearance, cutting out all 

 dead or unthrifty wood and removing diseased or 

 imperfect blooms as they appear from time to 

 time. In cases where plants are apparently 

 healthy and profuse bloomers, and their buds 

 blight or fail to mature, remove a large percentage 

 of them as they begin to develop and trim severely. 

 Should they exhibit a prolonged condition of de- 

 bility, and shed their leaves after being planted, 

 the tops should be cut back at least one-third. 

 In transplanting field-grown stock the roots will 

 suffer curtailment to the extent of about one-half, 

 and therefore the tops should be reduced propor- 

 tionately. Varieties of delicate habit, which are 

 by nature coy bloomers, need to be pruned rig- 

 orously. 



Keeping in mind our previous 

 remarks with reference to the 

 conditions of plant growth— soil, 

 light, temperature and moisture 

 —no difficulty whatever should be experienced in 

 propagating within doors. Plants intended for 

 Winter blooming should be purchased from a 

 reliable florist during September or October, and 

 when received the plants, if one year, should be 

 repotted into four-inch pots; if two year, into 

 six-inch pots. Boxes specially constructed for the 

 purpose may be substituted for pots. These 

 should be made ten inches wide, ten inches deep 

 and as long as required; at the bottom place 

 evenly a three-inch layer of broken crockery or 

 porous cinders, covering with a few sheets of 

 coarse brown paper to afford drainage. Fill to 

 within an inch of the top with good, rich potting 

 soil, which should consist of three parts loam and 

 one of sand. Liquid manure or fine ground bone 

 are excellent fertilizers. A warm, light situation 

 near a window where the plants can get as much 

 sun as possible should be selected. After plant- 

 ing, shade for a few days'until they have become 

 in a measure established. Should they become 

 infested with insect parasites, use some good 

 insecticide or remove the plants outdoors or to the 

 cellar and give a thorough drenching with tepid 

 water, cleaning and airing the window, stands or 

 shelves. A temperature ranging from 50 at night 

 to 75 during the day should be maintained ; this 

 is not difficult. The damage to plants usually 

 occurs at night, when the fires are low, during 

 extreme cold weather. Worms that sometimes 

 infest the soil may be expelled by a weak solution 

 of lime water. * * 



Iqseets ar;d 

 Insecticides 



There are quite a number of dif- 

 ferent species of insects which 

 prey upon the foliage and blos- 

 soms of the Rose. Their rav- 

 ages are worse in some localities as compared with 

 others; some years they are numerous— others, 

 conspicuous by their almost entire absence. 

 Thorough cultivation should be resorted to in 

 order to secure a healthy and vigorous growth of 

 the plants, in which state they are equipped for 

 the struggle for existence, and if attacked by insect 

 parasites the effects will be slight and not suffi- 

 cient to despoil them of much of their beauty of 

 foliage or bloom. At their very first appearance 

 a good insecticide should be used, a few applica- 

 tions of which is usually effectual in exterminat- 

 ing them at the outset, after which very little or 

 no trouble may be experienced. 



The following recipes and preparations are 

 recommended as being superior for the purpose, 

 and should be applied in solution both to the 

 upper and under surface of the leaves by means of 

 a spraying syringe or whisk broom. 



Kerosene Emulsion.— To two parts of kerosene 

 add one of slightly sour milk ; agitate until the 

 compound unites in the form of a white jelly ; 

 dilute with twenty parts of soft water. 



Tobacco Solution.— Made by boiling the leaves 

 or stems of tobacco ; the liquid should be made 

 about the strength of weak tea. 



Paris Green and London Purple.— Dissolve a 

 teaspoonful of either in a gallon of soft water and 

 mix thoroughly just before using. These com- 

 pounds are effective but poisonous, and therefore 

 care should be exercised. The solution is harm- 

 less after being applied, as it contains such a 

 small proportion of poisonous matter. 



Tobacco Insecticide Soap.— This preparation is 

 put up in tin cans, with directions for use printed 

 on labels. It is a standard remedy and one of the 

 best. Price, 30 cts. per can, by mail, postpaid. 



