D. M. FERRY & CO., DETROIT, MICH. 



HYACINTHS 



The Hyacinth 

 is so well and 

 so favorably 

 known that 



any descrip- 

 tion of it or any statement of its merits would be super- 

 fluous. Through centuries of care- 

 ful cultivation and selection it has 

 been brought to a state of perfec- 

 tion which will scarcely be im- 

 proved in any great degree. It 

 succeeds well in the house and gar- 

 den, adorning both with the varied 

 colors and delicious fragrance of 

 its showy flowers. Its culture is 

 very simple and if attention is paid 

 to the following directions failure 

 is almost impossible. 



Pot Culture in the House — 

 Plant from September to Decem- 

 ber in rich, sandy loam, in four or 

 five inch pots, inserting the bulb 

 so that its top is about level with 

 the surface. Do not pack the soil 

 in the pots, as the bulbs will be 

 much less liable to push out when 

 the root growth commences if the 

 soil is loose. Water thoroughly and 

 set the pots away in a cool, dark 

 place for several weeks. This 

 wnll allow the roots to grow and 

 become firmly fixed in the soil, 

 when the plants can be brought 

 into the light, and will at once 

 commence the top growth. By 

 bringing the pots into the light at 

 different times, something of a 

 succession of bloom may be had. 

 During their growth they should 

 be kept near the light and at a temperature of 50 to 70 degrees, and watered fre- 

 quently. 



Out=Door Culture in Beds or Borders.— The bulbs may be planted almost any time 

 from October until the ground is frozen solid, but it is advisable to purchase early, 

 before our stocks are depleted. They succeed in any good, well drained garden soil. 

 Dig deep, and mix in a little thoroughly decomposed manure if it is at hand. Set the 

 bulbs so that the tops will be between two and three inches below the surface, and six 

 to ten inches apart. Pack a little sand under and about them if it is convenient, being 

 careful that none of the manure comes in direct contact with the bulbs. 



Before very severe weather comes on, it is necessary to cover the beds with straw, 

 leaves or manure, to protect them from the severe cold during winter, but care should 

 be taken that this covering is not too thick and dense, as the bulbs are as likely to be 

 injured by being kept too warm as by freezing. The covering may be removed in 

 March, and a good result will be certain. 



In ordinary seasons the bulbs will begin to flower about the middle of April. The 

 flowers may be cut freely as wanted without injury to the bulbs. When the flowers 

 fade the flower stalk should be removed to strengthen the bulbs, and when the leaves 

 have faded, the bulbs should be lifted and allowed to remain a week or two in open 

 boxes until perfectly dry; then after removing the old leaves and stems they will be 

 ready to pack away in a cool, dry place for autumn use, 



CllaSS Culture — To grow in glasses, select dark colored glass, fill ^%'ith water until the base of each bulb 

 rests on the water, and set away in the dark as directed for pot culture. Fill up the glass with water as fast as it 

 evaporates. If the water becomes impure it should be changed and the roots well cleansed before putting in 

 again. A small piece of charcoal put in the glass will keep the water pure much longer. After the roots have 

 attained a good growth, the glass can be brought into the light and placed in a cool room near a window. Give 

 the plants plenty of light and as much fresh air as possible without a direct draught. Keep the glasses sufficiently 

 full of water. Do not keep them in a close, warm room, nor about a fireplace. If removed out of the direct rays 

 of the sun when in bloom, the flowers will last longer. 



All single Byacintbs succeed well in eUsses, and when forced. The double ones marked (*) are also desirable for forcing. 



SINGLE HYACINTHS. 



