pl^^ttli^rruV ^Yli/t6^l^ Q)yQy%lvru, ,J%^^:^i 



the crop nearly always increases nixry per cent each succeeding year unril the fifteenth or so, when it has 

 reached twenty bushels, or more. Other sorts will be only a year or so behind those named. The main thing 

 is to feed and prune and spray the trees right, and they will bear without fail. For Apples to use at home, 

 you want but a few trees. But trees are so easy to plant and care lor. and cose so little, that few people 

 want to limit themselves to a number only sufficiently to supply themselves with fruic. In home orchards, 

 plant varieties that ripen their fruit in summer, fall and winter, and you can have Apples the year round. 

 Do not plant too many kinds. Rather have many trees of one, two or three kinds. 



For a commercial orchard three kinds are enough. You can command the highest prices only by ha\'ing 

 to sell large quantities of one variety. Plant the trees in the orchard so that you will secure plenty of cross- 

 pollination. This is a point that has been overlooked, and has resulted many times that we know of in small 

 crops of inferior fruit; 150 feet is far enough to depend on pollen carr\-iiig. In the Xcrth, Mcintosh, Bald- 

 win. Snow King. Greening. Spy, Spitzenburg. Winter Banana, and Duchess are splendid. In the 

 latitude of central Pennsylvania, we would drop Snow King, Spitzenburg and Greening, and would add 

 Mammoth Black Twig, Stayman's. Rome Beauty, Grimes' Golden. Wealthy. Wagener. Jonathan. Stark, and 

 possibly one or two others — depending on the elevation. Look to the description of each kind for notes of 

 where it thrives, and consult other orchardists as to the conditions in your section. 



In Maryland and West \ irginia. York Imperial, Winesap, Williams' Early Red. and Red Astrachan 

 should be added to the list also, while Baldwin, Duchess and ^Iclntcsh are getting too far south to succeed. 

 Yellow Transparent does well almost evers-where. 



Elevation and latitude are similar in this way: Ever>" eight feet higher or lower equals a mile north 

 or south, or ever\.- degree of latitude equals 500 feet of elevation. You will have to be 36 feet higher than your 

 neighbor six miles to the north to have exactly the same conditions. Get sorts suited to your conditions 

 and your purposes and you will succeed. We strongly ad\'i=e ycu to get our book, "How to Grow and Market 

 Fruit/"' where the reasons why varieties differ in adaptability are explained. 



A great many questions are asked us about the time of ripening of the many varieties of Apples. It 

 must be remembered that no accurate statement of when a certain variety will ripen is possible, when 

 merely giving a date, because a hundred miles north or south, or a lew hundred feet in elevation, will change 

 the season of a variety as much as two or three months. For instance, Baldwin is a hard, juicy, crisp winter 

 Apple in Xew York, but in North Carolina it is soft, pale, mealy, and will not keep longer than October. 

 It is the same with other varieties. The selection of the proper kinds for your particular location is a matter 

 of such importance that it wiU justify thorough investigation before you plant, if you are not well infoimed 

 on the subject, and you do not find sufficient information here. Your choice is narrowed down by natural 

 hmitations to a dozen kinds. We shall be glad to take the macter up specially with reference tc your location, 

 if you wish. Should you write, teU us exactly where you are, and give details briefly, including elevation, 

 lay ol land, etc. 



Apple trees need ^-ar^ing spaces between, depending on the section and the variety. In Delaware, trees 

 grow ven.' large, while in Michigan they are smaller. In Delaware, twenty-year trees often will crowd when 

 40 feet apart, while 40 feet gives plenty of room in Pennsylvania and West \"irginia. In Ohio and the colder 

 sections, 30 feet is sometimes enough between. These distances are for permanent trees. Fillers merely 

 occupy the space ttU the permanent trees get big enough, and may be planted any distance you choose, if 

 you cut them out before they crowd too much. With permanent trees 40 feet apart, enough fillers to bring 

 this down to 20 feet will make a nice orchard to work. Some orchardists who like the intensive cultivation 

 idea, plant fillers 15 feet apart, but this is not to be recommended generally. Another practice is to leave some 

 40-foot spaces without fillers, planting others. 



We want everv' person who gets any of our trees to read and study " How to Grow and Market 

 Fruit." Get the book right away and be ready for the operations when the proper time comes. The book 

 will cost you nothing because we give it free with a $5 order. The main thing is to secure it and digest 

 its contents. You will see tree life and tree treatment in a different light afterwards. Thousands of prac- 

 tical men have read this book, and so far there is not one we talked with but who has admitted that he 

 learned many valuable things from it. 



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