STRAWBERRY CULTURE 



(Continued from page 16) 

 Care of the plants: A few weeks after the straw- 

 berries are planted they will produce blossoms. For 

 the regular matted-row system it is best to remove 

 these blooms since the plants will make better 

 growth. Hoeing and cultivation are necessary 

 practices for weed control, but much benefit can 

 be obtained by use of a good weed-killer. We rec- 

 ommend that you consult your state agricultural 

 authorities for recommendations. We use geese in 

 our fields for weed control; about three per acre 

 will do a good job on young grass. 



In northern states it is important to mulch straw- 

 berries for prevention of winter injury. Straw, hay, 

 or marsh grass are the best materials. It should be 

 applied in the fall when the temperature first 

 reaches 20°F and used so as to cover the plants to 

 a depth of 3 to 4 in. About three to six tons 



of hay or straw per acre is needed. As soon as 

 strawberry leaves begin to grow in the spring 

 mulch should be removed so that only about an 

 inch remains. The rest should be kept between the 

 beds where it will help keep the berries clean and 

 free of rot. Even in the South many berries are 

 mulched to help keep them free of dirt and decay. 



Control of diseases and insects: Two soil dis- 

 eases: red stele and verticillium wilt, sometimes 

 damage strawberries. On page 4 there is a list of 

 resistant varieties. In our No. 17 issue of "Better 

 Berries" we have a chart showing control of dis- 

 eases and insects. And in our No. 21 issue there is 

 a full summary of strawberry culture. Write to 

 Rayner Bros. Inc., Salisbury, Maryland 21801. 



For further details concerning strawberries contact 

 your county agricultural agent or write to your state 

 agricultural extension service. 



RAYNER'S PROVEN PLANTING SYSTEM GIVES YOU DELICIOUS 

 RIPE STRAWBERRIES WITHIN 60 DAYS AFTER PLANTING 



The usual and most reliable method of growing 

 strawberries is to remove the blossoms that are 

 produced the same season the plants are set. For 

 large plantings this is the best method, since it 

 gives better stands of plants if growing conditions 

 are unfavorable. 



But with the new virus-free vigor of Rayner's 

 registered strawberry plants it is now possible to 

 leave the blossoms on the newly set plants and to 

 harvest big delicious berries within six to eight weeks 

 after planting. We recommend this method only for 

 those who are willing to take the small amount of 

 extra care that is necessary. But if you will follow 

 the method described below, we feel certain that 

 you will be rewarded with a fine yield of beautiful 

 berries within 60 days after planting and that you 

 will be truly amazed at the yield and size of berries 

 the second season. 



1. Select a piece of well-drained soil that re- 

 ceives full sunlight. During the fall or early spring, 

 make a heavy application of organic matter. Well- 

 rotted stable manure is preferred, but chicken 

 manure is also good. Compost, sawdust, and peat 

 are also satisfactory, but if they are used some type 

 of fertilizer would be helpful. For each bushel use 

 8 oz. of ammonium nitrate or 1 lb. 5-10-5 or similar 



! fertilizer. This material should be mixed thoroughly 

 I into the soil at least two weeks before planting. 

 i Plant as early as possible in the spring and no later 

 than June 15. This method is not recommended 

 j for strawberries set after this date. 



2. Set the plants about 18 in. apart in the row 

 and have 3 ft. between rows. Make a hole for each 

 plant so that the roots can be fully extended and 

 spread outward slightly. Pour about 1 pt. of sol- 

 uble fertilizer around each plant, and press the soil 

 firmly around it so that the roots are fully covered 

 but no soil is on the bud. 



3. Each week during the growing season straw- 



berries require about 2 in. of water. If this is not re- 

 ceived by rainfall, it should be applied. 



4. About 25 to 30 days after planting, the plants 

 will produce blossoms. Do not remove these blos- 

 soms since in another 25 to 30 days they will develop 

 into delicious ripe strawberries. 



5. Runner plants will develop from the original 

 plants during the summer and fall. Allow each 

 plant to form no more than six plants, and keep the 

 rest removed. This will involve some extra work 

 but is well worth the effort. This results in a 

 spaced fruiting bed for the next season that will 

 give tremendous yields of unusually large berries. 

 If the regular type of matted fruiting bed is pre- 

 ferred, there is no need for runner control but yield 

 and size are generally less in matted rows than in 

 spaced rows. 



6. In mid-August spread a complete fertilizer 

 such as 10-6-4 directly on the plants when they are 

 dry. Use about 1 lb. per 60 ft. of row and brush it 

 off the leaves to prevent burning. A foliar fertilizer 

 or any type of well-rotted manure could also be 

 used. 



7. During the winter a mulch of about 2 in. of 

 straw should be placed over the plants when the 

 temperature first reaches 20°F. This should be light- 

 ly raked to the row middles in early spring where it 

 will help to keep the berries clean. If frost threat- 

 ens the blossoms, it can be spread on the plants and 

 removed after the danger of frost has passed. 



8. Nearly any variety of strawberry can be used 

 for this method but the plants should have the vi- 

 rus-free vigor provided by Rayner's registered 

 stock. 



In northern states it is best to plant varieties re- 

 sistant to verticillium wilt in land where tomatoes 

 and potatoes have recently been grown. Some ex- 

 cellent resistant varieties are Surecrop, Catskill, 

 Premier, Robinson, Empire and Sunrise. 



BUY RAYNER'S PLANTS AND YOU BUY THE BEST 





