STRAWBERRY CULTURE 



(Continued from page 18) 



Care of the plants: A few weeks after the 

 strawberries are planted they will produce 

 blossoms. For the regular matted-row system 

 it is best to remove these blooms since the 

 plants will make better growth. Hoeing and 

 cultivation are necessary practices for weed 

 control but much benefit can be obtained by 

 use of a good weed-killer. We recommend 

 Sesone. Consult your state agricultural au- 

 thorities for recommendations. We use geese 

 in our fields for weed control ; about three per 

 acre will do a good job on young grass. 



In northern states it is important to mulch 

 strawberries for prevention of winter injury. 

 Straw, hay or marsh grass are the best mater- 

 ials. It should be applied in the fall when the 

 temperature first reaches 20° F and used so as 

 to cover the plants to a depth of three to four 

 inches. About three to six tons of hay or 



straw per acre is needed. As soon as new 

 strawberry leaves begin to grow in the spring 

 the mulch should be removed so that only 

 about an inch remains. The rest should be 

 kept between the beds where it will help keep 

 the berries clean and free of rot. Even in the 

 south many berries are mulched to help keep 

 them free of dirt and decay. 



Control of Diseases and Insects: Two soil 

 diseases, red stele and Verticillium wilt some- 

 times damage strawberries. On page 4 there 

 is a list of resistant varieties. In our No. 17 

 issue of "Better Berries" we have a chart 

 showing control of diseases and insects. Your 

 county agent can also give recommendations. 



For further information concerning straw- 

 berry production write to your state agricul- 

 tural experiment station. For 20c we will 

 send a complete set of "Better Berries" which 

 gives more details concerning culture of berry 

 crops, fruits, and other crops. Send to Rayner 

 Bros., Inc., Salisbury, Md. 



RAYNER'S PROVEN PLANTING SYSTEM GIVES YOU DELICIOUS 

 RIPE STRAWBERRIES WITHIN 60 DAYS AFTER PLANTING 



The usual and most reliable method of grow- 

 ing strawberries is to remove the blossoms 

 that are produced the same season the plants 

 are set. For large plantings this is the best 

 method since it gives better stands of plants 

 if growing conditions are unfavorable. 



But with the new virus-free vigor of Ray- 

 ner's registered strawberry plants it is now 

 possible to leave the blossoms on the newly set 

 plants and to harvest big delicious berries 

 within 6 to 8 weeks after planting. We re- 

 commend this method only for those who are 

 willing to take the small amount of extra care 

 that is necessary. But if you will follow the 

 method described below we feel certain that 

 you will be rewarded with a fine yield of beau- 

 tiful berries within 60 days after planting and 

 that you will be truly amazed at the yield and 

 size of berries the second season. 



1. Select a piece of well drained soil that 

 receives full sunlight. During the fall or ear- 

 ly spring, make a heavy application of organic 

 matter. Well rotted stable manure is pre- 

 ferred but chicken manure is also good. Com- 

 post, sawdust, and peat are also satisfactory 

 but if they are used some type of fertilizer 

 would be helpful. For each bushel use 8 oz. 

 of Ammonium nitrate or 1 lb. of 5-10-5 or sim- 

 ilar fertilizer. This material should be mixed 

 thoroughly into the soil at least 2 weeks be- 

 fore planting. Plant as early as possible in 

 the spring and no later than June 15. This 

 method is not recommended for strawberries 

 set after this date. 



2. Set the plants about 18 inches apart in 

 the row and have 3 ft. between rows. Make 

 a hole for each plant so that the roots can be 

 fully extended and spread outward slightly. 

 Pour about 1 pint of soluble fertilizer around 

 each plant and press the soil firmly around it 

 so that the roots are fully covered but no soil 

 is on the bud. 



3. Each week during the growing season 

 strawberries require about 2 inches of water. 



BUY RAYNER'S PLANTS AND YOU BUY THE BEST 



If this is not received by rainfall, it should be 

 applied. 



4. About 25-30 days after planting the 

 plants will produce blossoms. Do not remove 

 these blossoms since in another 25-30 days 

 they will develop into delicious ripe strawber- 

 ries. 



5. Runner plants will develop from the 

 original plants during the summer and fall. 

 Allow each plant to form no more than 6 run- 

 ners and keep the rest removed. This will in- 

 volve some extra work but is well worth the 

 effort. This results in a spaced fruiting bed 

 for the next season that will give tremendous 

 yields of unusually large berries. If the reg- 

 ular type of matted fruiting bed is preferred 

 there is no need for runner control but yield 

 and size are generally less in matted rows 

 than in spaced rows. 



6. In mid- August spread a complete ferti- 

 lizer such as 10-6-4 directly on the plants when 

 they are dry. Use about 1 lb. per 40 ft. of 

 row and brush it off the leaves to prevent 

 burning. A foliar fertilizer or any type of 

 well rotted manure could also be used. 



8. During the winter a mulch of about 2 

 inches of straw should be placed over the 

 plants when the temperature first reaches 

 20° F. This should be lightly raked to the 

 row middles in early spring where it will help 

 to keep the berries clean. If frost threatens 

 the blossoms it can be spread on the plants 

 and removed after the danger of frost has 

 passed. 



9. Nearly any variety of strawberry can be 

 used for this method but the plants should 

 have the virus-free vigor provided by Rayner's 

 registered stock. 



In northern states it is best to plant varie- 

 ties resistant to Verticillium wilt in land 

 where tomatoes, potatoes, have recently been 

 grown. Some excellent resistant varieties are 

 Surecrop, Catskill, Vermilion, Premier, and 

 Robinson. 



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