ALLEN'S BOOK OF BERRIES— 1921 



We cannot emphasize too strongly the importance of planting 

 early. In this section the last two weeks in March are the ideal 

 planting days. We cannot get our entire plantings out during 

 those two weeks, but the ones we do get out then always start 

 quicker, grow better and make better beds than those planted 

 later unless conditions are very favorable. 



Early Planting will pay big. We know this because with our 

 large plantings we cannot get them all set at the ideal time. 

 Often an advantage of ten days to two weeks in time of planting 

 will more than offset the benefits of a good dressing of fertilizer 

 on later plantings. This is not theory. It has happened in 

 our experience a number of times. It was true this year. 

 When a plant grower in the latitude of New York or Massachu- 

 setts can dig plants, berry growers in those sections should be 

 setting their plants. This is a big advantage we can give growers 

 in those latitudes. We can dig and ship plants earlier and have 

 them right at hand for early planting. 



Setting the Plants. Just before planting, the ground should 

 be harrowed and made as level as possible. Then mark out the 

 rows and you are ready to plant. There are a number of different 

 methods of planting, but an ordinary garden or trowel or a fiat 

 dibble are the best tools to use. Whatever tool is used try to have 

 the roots of the plant spread out fan-shaped, and be sure to have 

 the crown at the surface of the ground — not below nor above. 



In some sections where large acreages are planted, a small 

 three furrowed list or row is run up with a plow and then leveled 

 off with a rake or drag. This gives a nice soft planting bed, but 

 unless the ground is quite moist the rows should be run up two 

 or three days before planting to allow the moisture to rise, and 

 then rake off just before planting. Plowing, harrowing thor- 

 oughly, and marking off rows is the best for small fields and gar- 

 dens. It is best for larger fields unless the grower is familiar 

 with other methods that have worked well under his conditions. 



Methods of Training. The matted row, hill, and hedge row 

 systems are most commonly used. We advise the hill and hedge 

 row methods only for those who have used them and found them 

 satisfactory or for those who know of others nearby who have used 

 those methods successfully. They require more time, trouble, 

 and expense. It is claimed for them that they make a larger 

 yield of fine berries. 



We prefer the matted row for both garden and for field culture. 

 The extra foliage protects the fruit from scalding, makes them 

 less sandy after a rain, and with us the yield of large, well-shaped 

 berries is usually greater than with any other system. It is not 

 so important to keep the row narrow, especially if the ground 

 contains plenty of moisture. Varieties with large plants like 

 Big Joe, Ekey, Chesapeake, Wm. Belt, Early Jersey Giant, Paul 

 Jones* etc., rarely get either too wide or too thick. Very vigorous 

 growing varieties that have small plants as, Senator Dunlap, 

 McAlpin, Warfield, etc., on rich ground will set too thickly for 

 fruiting purposes if not kept thinned. 



Probably 90 % of all the strawberries grown in this country 

 are grown in matted rows. Under average conditions and es- 

 pecially with present labor shortage we would not want to use 

 any other system. 



Cultivation. Young plants should be cultivated frequently 

 after they begin to grow. This is done not only to keep down 

 weeds and grass, but also to save more moisture. After heavy 

 rains the soil will become hard and "bake," causing it to dry out 

 quickly and be very cloddy when cultivated, unless the cultiva- 

 tion is done while soil is still damp. So it is best to cultivate as 

 soon after a rain as condition of the soil will permit. 



In seasons of severe drought constant cultivation keeps a 

 "dust blanket" over the soil and prevents evaporation. So, 

 even if no weeds or grass have started, it is advisable to cultivate 

 frequently. 



Never Got Any Except First Class Plants. 



Allegheny County, N. Y., January 14, 1920. 

 Will you kindly send me your 1920 catalog. I wrote for one last year, 



but failed to get it, and I bought plants of the Co. They 



substituted, and the plants they sent were not fit to set and did not amount 

 to anything. I bought plants of you the first year you were in the business 

 when the only catalog you had was a single sheet folded. I lived at Lima, 

 N. Y., at the time. I have had plants from you at times ever since, and 

 never git any but good first class plants. 



Lloyd S. Cbandall. 



