BETTER GARDENS 



"I beg to caution the inexperienced, however, by no means to tread or roll in 

 the ground is not dry. The soil may often be in a suitable condition to sow, and yet be 

 too damp to be trodden upon or rolled. In such cases these operations may not be neces- 

 sary at all, for if rainy weather ensue, the seeds will germinate, of course; but if there 

 is any likelihood of a continued draught, the treading or rolling may be done a week or 

 more after the seed has been sown, if there is any reason to believe that it may suffer from 

 the dry, hot air. 



"Now, if firming the soil around seed, to protect it from the inflence of a dry and hot 

 atmosphere, is a necessity, it is obvious that it is more so in the case of plants whose root- 

 lets are even mors sensitive to such influence than the dormant seed; the plant, in nine 

 cases out of ten, is left loose and waggling; the dry air penetrates through the soil to its 

 roots; the wind.3 .shake it; it shrivels up and fails to grow." 



THE RIGHT AND WRONG WAYS OF 

 SOWING SEEDS IN GARDEN DRILLS 



THE WRONG WAY 



Make the drills with a flat bottom 

 2 to 3 inches in width and scatter the 

 seeds over the surface, so that every 

 develojnng seedling may have at least 

 a little feeding ground, and not be 

 starved, out in a "survival of the fit- 

 test" struggle as many are when seeds 

 are huddled together in a V-shaped 

 furrow. A little more time and care 

 when sowing seeds, saves much time 

 and labor in thinning, and in the 

 thinning of well-scattered seedlings, 



those removed do not so disturb those that remain. 



THE RIGHT WAY 



TRANSPLANTING VEGETABLE CROPS 



In cool, northern climates where some vege- 

 tables are wanted early, it is the custom to 

 start the seeds in a protected or glass-covered 

 seed bed and from here transplant the seed- 

 lings as soon as they are large enough to 

 handle — and when they begin to crowd one 

 another. These seedlings should be trans- 

 planted 1 to 2 inches apart in another seed 

 bed where they can "harden off" before 

 being planted out in the open garden. In 

 the operation of transplanting, care should be used that the roots are placed down in the 

 hole and not curled up towards the neck of the plant and also be sure that the earth is 

 closed against the roots for their whole length, for an air space left at the bottom of the 

 hole is likely to cause the rootlets to wither and the plant to languish (see explanatory 

 illustration). Some vegetable plants are greatly benefited by one or more transplantings 

 which causes a busyh growth of roots — among these are notably Cabbage, Cauliflower, 

 Celery, Lettuce, Tomatoes, etc. Some other kinds are difficult to transplant and are best 

 transferred from the seed bed to paper pots or other receptacles so they may be grown 

 individually and be planted in the open garden with but little disturbance of the root 

 system — among these "hard to transplant" vegetables are Beans, Cucumbers, Melons, 

 Squash, etc. 



Before removing seedlings from the seed bed for transplanting it is advisable to water 

 them thoroughly a little while before lifting so the soil may settle and adhere to the roots 

 when taken up; this also softens the soil so there is less loss of rootlets and the plants are 

 not so liable to wilt. It is also a good practice to shear off from one-fourth to one-third 

 of the tip ends of the foliage, especially such plants as may be a little drawn and "leggy." 

 Should the ground and weather be dry the newly set out plants should be at once watered — 

 and possibly shaded — with a plant protector or paper or even a shingle thrust in the ground. 



WATERING THE GARDEN 



All crops and particularly succulent vegetables require great quantities of water to 

 enable them to attain capacity size at maturity. It is estimated that from ">0 to 100 

 times their (green) weight in water with accompanying dissolved plant foods is conveyed 

 through their roots to all portions of the plant and then discharged into the air through 

 transpiration and evaporation. To make good this loss of water when the rainfall is 

 inadequate it is necessary to apply water artificially and as needed to prevent any check 

 in plant growth. There are several methods of applying water depending largely upon 

 the supply. Irrigation through open ditches and laterals; sub-irrigation through tiles laid 

 underi."-ouiid, etc., but the most extensively practised method is through piping laid either 

 below ground or above with frequent connections for hose; also portable pipes are largely 

 used with small spray nozzles fitted in .5 or 4 feet apart. Whatever method is employed, 

 it is a good investment, insuring a crop in dry seasons^ When water is applied it should 

 go on gently but in sufficient volume to percolate to the extremities of root grow 

 moisten the ground thoroughly all the way down, (hie such watering a week is much 

 more effective than a light sprinkling daily which only refreshes the upper roots and keep-- 

 them growing towards the surface. Roots should be induced to grow downward as much 

 as possible where temperature and moisture conditions are more equable. For further 

 information on this subject, SCe "Rainfall and the Quantity of Water Crops Require,' 'in 

 the "Garden Guide and Record." 



