Common Sense Methods 



Soil and Climate 



strawberries are grown successfully in semi- 

 tropical Florida and as far north as Canada or 

 Alaska. There are varieties adapted to a wide 

 range of climatic conditions. 



All types of soil from fairly heavy clay to light 

 sandy loam have been used to grow good crops 

 of strawberries. However, like most other crops, 

 they respond very quickly to fertile, well 

 drained soils that are full of humus and reten- 

 tive of moisture. 



The absence of straw^berry plantings in any 

 locality should not deter anyone from attempt- 

 ing to grow them. In fact a lack of a local sup- 

 ply may even increase your chances for success 

 because of a better local demand. Also, experi- 

 ence, though valuable, is not necessary. Com- 

 mon sense methods enable even the beginner 

 to grow strawberries successfully. 



Selecting and Preparing the Land 



Locations that make good gardens are gen- 

 erally satisfactory for strawberries. In larger 

 plantings a site should be selected that has good 

 drainage, and "frost pockets" should be avoided. 

 As sufficient moisture is so important in growing 

 and fruiting strawberry plants, soils that are 

 naturally springy or that contain plenty of humus 

 are to be preferred. Any soil that has had good 

 crops of cow peas, clover, rye, or any other good 

 cover crops turned under will be full of humus 

 and therefore more retentive of moisture, as well 

 as looser and more easily worked in the case of 

 heavier soils. If in the previous year the field 

 has been planted with some hoed crop where 

 grass and weeds have been kept down and not 

 allowed to go to seed the problem of cultivation 

 will prove much easier. Perhaps a cover crop can 

 be planted after the hoed crop is harvested to 

 hold the soil during the winter as well as to add 

 additional humus. 



Sod land should be avoided if possible, as the 

 white grubs winter over in such land and cut off 

 the young plants soon after they are set the fol- 

 lowing spring. If you have no other land avail- 

 able plow the land in the fall, harrowing it dur- 

 ing the winter and early spring as often as you 

 can, and many of the grubs will be killed out. 



It is important to give soil for strawberries 

 thorough preparation. Strawberry plant roots 

 rarely penetrate further than one foot into the 

 soil. Most of the roots are to be found in the top 

 twelve inches: in fact it has been found that 90% 

 were in the top six inches of soil with 73% in 

 the top three inches. It is evident, therefore, that 

 the condition of the top few inches of soil is very 

 important for a crop as shallow rooted as stra^v^- 

 berries. 



The land selected should be plowed in early 

 spring. If the field has been selected the pre- 

 ceding fall and rye planted, a heavy sod of rye 

 plowed under in early spring will help, altho, of 

 course, it is not necessary. After the ground is 

 plowed in the spring it should be harrowed 

 thoroughly. If stable manure is to be used (see 

 manure and fertilizer, page 12) we like it best 

 spread broadcast on the land just after it is 

 plowed. Then the land, either with or without 

 the manure, should be disced thoroughly, and, if 

 necessary, dragged to level it up so that a nice, 

 soft, even planting bed is available. 



Some growers on large farms follow^ a fairly 

 regular crop rotation which helps with the con- 

 dition of the soil both in avoiding grass and 

 weed seeds and in increasing the humus content. 

 Growing of strawberries continuously on the 

 same land, although sometimes done success- 

 fully, is not considered good practice. 



The important thing to remember is that soils 

 which produce good crops of other things will 

 usually grow strawberries successfully. For 

 small plantings gardens or garden plots which 

 have been well manured, are desirable. 



Green Manures 



The soil for strawberries can be improved by 

 the use of green manure crops. Clover, beans, 

 peas and other legumes are fine. Oats, wheat, 

 rye, millet are also good. Legumes are preferred 



if a heavy crop can be grown. HOTvever, the 

 nitrogen gathering advantages of legumes may 

 be off-set by the heavy growth possible with 

 non-legumes under some conditions. Rank 

 growths of weeds and grass if plowed under 

 green are valuable in adding humus and retain- 

 ing moisture. Do not let them go to seed if a 

 hoed crop like strawberry plants is to follow. 

 Soil preparation for strawberry plants starts so 

 early in the spring that winter cover crops should 

 be selected which make a large amount of 

 growth in the fall and if possible has a fairly 

 large root growth. For this purpose we have 

 found nothing better than rye. 



Clipping the Roots 



Clipping the roots is not necessary nor helpful 

 if you can get the roots of the plants in the soil 

 without being doubled up. It is better, how- 

 ever, to clip the roots somewhat than to have 

 them doubled up in the ground. Where a hor.se- 

 drawn transplanter is used, it is probably better 

 to clip the roots anyway to expedite handling 

 the plants, unless they are very small. 



Time to Set Plants 

 L\ THE MIDDLE AND NORTHERN 

 STATES EARLY SPRING IS THE LOG- 

 ICAL, NATURAL AND MOST SUCCESS- 

 FUL TIME TO SET STRAWBERRY 

 PLANTS, SO DON'T NEGLECT SET- 

 TING SOME PLANTS THIS SPRING, 

 1935, IF YOU WANT A CROP IN 1936 

 (EXCEPT EVERBEARERS WHICH 

 WILL BEAR THE SAME SUMMER AND 

 FALL). FALL 1935 PLANTING, EX- 

 CEPT FAR SOUTH, WILL MEAN NO 

 CROP UNTIL EARLY SUMMER, 1937. 



How Early? 



Just as soon as weather permits getting 

 ground ready. In the South, February, March 

 and early April. In the middle states, March and 

 April. In the Northern states, April. 



Why so early f Experience has taught that 

 strawberries live better and grow better if they 

 can become established early in the spring while 

 the soil is still cool and moist. Late set plants 

 are more likely to run into hot, dry conditions 

 which make good results unlikely if not impos- 

 sible. Furthermore, investigations have shown 

 that runner plants made early are much more 

 fruitful than those made in late summer or fall. 

 Early spring planting, therefore, tends to pro- 

 mote a larger percentage of highly productive, 

 early set runner plants. If ordering plants be 

 sure to order early enough so that they can be 

 at hand as soon as the ground is prepared. 



When a plant grower in the latitude of New 

 York or Massachusetts can dig plants, berry 

 growers in those sections should be setting their 

 plants. This is a big advantage we can give 

 growers in those latitudes. We can dig and ship 

 plants earlier and have them right at hand for 

 early planting. 



Care of Plants 



Set plants on arrival if possible. It will help 

 if roots of the plants can be dipped in water and 

 allowed to "plump up" for some time before set- 

 ting, perhaps over night. If plants have become 

 quite dry and withered in transit it will help to 

 put them in soak, that is to let them stay in the 

 water for two or three hours, perhaps longer. 

 When this is done, however, tliey should be set 

 fairly soon after being taken from the water. At 

 any rate have them thoroughly moistened when 

 planting. If anything prevents immediate plant- 

 ing and the weather is cool, the top of the crate 

 should be taken off and the plants loosened in 

 the crate, still keeping the roots covered with the 

 packing material. Placed where it is cool, plants 



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