M. S. PEYOR, SALISBURY, MD. 



Strawberry Culture 



Soil — Strawberries will grow on most all kinds of soil if springy and moist, as they 

 require a great deal of moisture especially at fruiting time, but well drained so water 

 will not stand. Tliey are grown in nearly all climates, being grown with success as far 

 south as Florida and as far north as Alaska and on the light sandy types as well as on 

 the heavier soils, altho, like most other ci-ops they will produce larger crops if planted in 

 fertile well drained fields that are full of humus and that will retain moisture, in fact, 

 any kind of land that will make good crops of corn or potatoes will make a good crop 

 of berries. Strawberries should follow some truck crop that has been heavily manured, 

 if possible, as this seems to put the plant food in just the right condition for them to use 

 and also will be less weed seeds, or after cow peas. If neither of these are available, 

 rye can be sown in the early fall and plowed under in the early spring, this will supply 

 plant food and humus and help retain moisture. After the field has been selected it 

 should be plowed in early spring and if barnyard manure is to be used would advise 

 broadcasting it at this time, and either with or without manure should be thoroughly pre- 

 pared by discing then harrowing or dragging until the field is level so as to have a nice 

 soft even planting bed. Strawberries should not be planted on an old sod, as this is like- 

 ly to be infested with grubs ; such land should receive at least one cultivated crop before 

 planting to strawberries. 



Planting — In the northern states strawberry plants should be set as early in the 

 spring as the ground can be prepared as plants set at this time, before the sun gets hot, 

 will have plenty of moisture, something every plant must have to live — insuring a good 

 stand, if properly set, and will do much better than when set late. In the south plants 

 may be set any time from Nov. 1st to April 1st. When setting plants care should be 

 taken not to let the roots be exposed to the wind and sun. The roots should be kept 

 damp and set in moist soil and the soil should be firmly pressed around the plant so it 

 will not dry out and not set too deep so that the buds will be covered and not too shal- 

 low so that any part of the root will show. In setting plants a spade, trowel or dibble are 

 the tools usually used, altho a two horse transplanter is often used in large commercial 

 plantings but this is rather particular work and the droppers should have some exper- 

 ience to set them out properly. 



Distance to Plant — For the matted row system the rows should be about Sl/.^ to 

 4 feet apart and the plants set 13 to 20 inches apart in the row according to variety. 

 Prolific plant makers like Missionary, Blakemore and Dunlap can be set farther apart 

 than varieties that make larger but fewer plants like Chesapeake, Lupton and Mastodon. 

 After the beds are 12 to 15 inches wide or as wide as wanted the runners should be kept 

 cut off. Wider beds than this would be satisfactory provided the plants are trained in 

 the row when hoeing so thy will not be too thick or over crowded in the row but each 

 plant spaced a few inches apart. 



Fertilizing — To get plants started early a light application of fertilizer, if barnyard 

 manure is not available which is best applied as above, should be made before planting, 

 but I desire to warn my customers against the too heavy application of commercial fer- 

 tilizer to young strawberry plants, as many plants have been injured and often killed 

 outright, but 400 or 500 lbs. of a mixture composed of 1500 lbs. dissolved bone and 800 lbs. 

 acid phosphate would not injure them if put in the drill or row provided it is well scat- 

 tered and thoroughly mixed with the soil but would advise putting it in about 10 days 

 before plants are set. An application of from 400 to 500 lbs. per acre as a top-dressing 

 in September, of a mixture containing from four to seven per cent, of nitrogen and from 

 five to ten per cent, of phosphoric acid with very little if any potash. Probably early 

 September would be the best time, for if applied then you will have stronger and more 

 vigorous plants and would aid in the formation of fruit buds. Another application in 

 early spring, before growth starts, especially if a second year fruiting bed, would be 

 beneficial. All fertilizer should be brushed off the leaves immediately after putting on 

 and never use fertilizers when the plants are wet as doing so will result in scorched or 

 burnt foliage. 



Care of Plants When Receive{l--When plants arrive they should be removed from 

 express or postoffice as soon as possible and set in cool place and if they appear to be 

 very dry should be dipped in water or better still let them stand in water (roots not fol- 

 iage) for two or three hours or possibly overnight so they will drink sufficient water 

 to freshen them up and if for any reason you are not quite ready to set plants they can 

 be kept a week or two by unpacking them carefully separating each variety, untieing 

 bundles and heeling in V-shaped trenches, dampen the roots, if this has not been done, 

 but not the tops, firm soil around them with foot and shade from sun. 



