STRAWBERRY CULTURE 
(Continued from page 18) 
Care of the plants: A few weeks after the straw- 
berries are planted they will produce blossoms. For 
the regular matted-row system it is best to remove 
these blooms since the plants will make better 
growth. Hoeing and cultivation are necessary 
practices for weed control, but much benefit can 
be obtained by use of a good weed-killer. We rec- 
ommend Sesone. Consult your state agricultural 
authorities for recommendations. We use geese in 
our fields for weed control; about three per acre 
will do a good job on young grass. 
In northern states it is important to mulch straw- 
berries for prevention of winter injury. Straw, hay, 
or marsh grass are the best materials. It should be 
applied in the fall when the temperature first 
reaches 20°F and used so as to cover the plants to 
a depth of 3 to 4 in. About three to six tons 
of hay or straw per acre is needed. As soon as new 
strawberry leaves begin to grow in the spring, the 
mulch should be removed so that only about an 
inch remains. The rest should be kept between the 
beds where it will help keep the berries clean and 
free of rot. Even in the South many berries are 
mulched to help keep them free of dirt and decay. 
Control of diseases and insects: Two soil dis- 
eases: red stele and verticillium wilt, sometimes 
damage strawberries. On page 4 there is a list of 
resistant varieties. In our No. 17 issue of ‘‘Better 
Berries”? we have a chart showing control of dis- 
eases and insects. And in our No. 21 issue there is 
a full summary of strawberry culture. Write to 
Rayner Bros. Inc., Salisbury, Maryland 21801. 
For further details concerning strawberries contact 
your county agricultural agent or write to your state 
agricultural extension service. 
RAYNER’S PROVEN PLANTING SYSTEM GIVES YOU DELICIOUS 
RIPE STRAWBERRIES WITHIN 
The usual and most reliable method of growing 
strawberries is to remove the blossoms that are 
produced the same season the plants are set. For 
large plantings this is the best method, since it 
gives better stands of plants if growing conditions 
are unfavorable. 
But with the new virus-free vigor of Rayner’s 
registered strawberry plants it is now possible to 
leave the blossoms on the newly set plants and to 
harvest big delicious berries within six to eight weeks 
after planting. We recommend this method only for 
those who are willing to take the small amount of 
extra care that is necessary. But if you will follow 
the method described below, we feel certain that 
you will be rewarded with a fine yield of beautiful 
berries within 60 days after planting and that you 
will be truly amazed at the yield and size of berries 
the second season. 
1. Select a piece of well-drained soil that re- 
ceives full sunlight. During the fall or early spring, 
make a heavy application of organic matter. Well- 
rotted stable manure is preferred, but chicken 
manure is also good. Compost, sawdust, and peat 
are also satisfactory, but if they are used some type 
of fertilizer would be helpful. For each bushel use 
8 oz. of ammonium nitrate or 1 lb. 5-10-5 or similar 
fertilizer. This material should be mixed thoroughly 
into the soil at least two weeks before planting. 
Plant as early as possible in the spring and no later 
than June 15. This method is not recommended 
for strawberries set after this date. 
2. Set the plants about 18 in. apart in the row 
and have 3 ft. between rows. Make a hole for each 
plant so that the roots can be fully extended and 
spread outward slightly. Pour about 1 pt. of sol- 
uble fertilizer around each plant, and press the soil 
firmly around it so that the roots are fully covered 
but no soil is on the bud. 
3. Hach week during the growing season straw- 
60 DAYS AFTER PLANTING 
berries require about 2 in. of water. If this is not re- 
ceived by rainfall, it should be applied. 
4. About 25 to 30 days after planting, the plants 
will produce blossoms. Do not remove these blos- 
soms since in another 25 to 30 days they will develop 
into delicious ripe strawberries. 
5. Runner plants will develop from the original 
plants during the summer and fall. Allow each 
plant to form no more than six plants, and keep the 
rest removed. This will involve some extra work 
but is well worth the effort. This results in a 
spaced fruiting bed for the next season that will 
give tremendous yields of unusually large berries. 
If the regular type of matted fruiting bed is pre- 
ferred, there is no need for runner control but yield 
and size are generally less in matted rows than in 
spaced rows. 
6. In mid-August spread a complete fertilizer 
such as 10-6-4 directly on the plants when they are 
dry. Use about 1 lb. per 60 ft. of row and brush it 
off the leaves to prevent burning. A foliar fertilizer 
or any type of well-rotted manure could also be 
used. 
8. During the winter a mulch of about 2 in. of 
straw should be placed over the plants when the 
temperature first reaches 20°F. This should be light- 
ly raked to the row middles in early spring where it 
will help to keep the berries clean. If frost threat- 
ens the blossoms, it can be spread on the plants and 
removed after the danger of frost has passed. 
9. Nearly any variety of strawberry can be used 
for this method but the plants should have the vi- 
rus-free vigor provided by Rayner’s registered 
stock. 
In northern states it is best to plant varieties re- 
sistant to verticillium wilt in land where tomatoes 
and potatoes have recently been grown. Some ex- 
cellent resistant varieties are Surecrop, Catskill, 
Premier, and Robinson. 
BUY RAYNER’S PLANTS AND YOU BUY THE BEST 19 
