Growing Blueberries 
These instructions apply to Rayner’s hardy, 
top-quality plants. Be sure to prune about half 
of top from large bushes before planting. 
‘WHERE BLUEBERRIES CAN BE GROWN: 
The varieties of blueberries we offer will grow 
well from North Carolina to Maine and west- 
ward to Michigan and Missouri. They also grow 
well in parts of California, Oregon, and Washing- 
ton. For best fruit production blueberries re- 
quire full sunlight. The best time to plant is early 
spring. Frost or snow will not harm newly planted 
blueberries. 
“SOIL ACIDITY: One of the most important 
factors in successful blueberry culture is to use 
acid soil—a pH range of 4.0 to 5.5 is considered 
best. Many soils naturally have this much acidi- 
ty, but in many areas where blueberries could 
otherwise grow well the soil is not sufficiently 
-acid. For small-scale plantings this difficulty can 
_be readily overcome. One of the best methods is 
to dig a hole about 18 in. deep and about the same 
in width. Mix half of this soil with well-rotted 
sleaf mold or peat and then mix in 3 oz. ammonium 
»sulfate fertilizer plus 14 lb. of cottonseed meal. 
| Replace this mixture in the hole and set the plant 
) properly, and you have overcome the main prob- 
ilem in growing blueberries. 
“DRAINAGE: Cultivated blueberries require a 
uniform supply of moisture but they will not 
tolerate poorly drained or soggy soil. Avoid 
heavy clay soil for large plantings. 
‘HOW TO PLANT: If the roots have become 
dry in shipment, they should be placed in water 
for about an hour. Best results are obtained if 
sabout half of the top growth is pruned from the 
‘plant. This allows the plant to become estab- 
‘lished faster and better. It will rapidly make an 
sabundance of new, sturdy growth. After the 
holes have been dug and the soil prepared as 
»previously described, the plant should be set so 
that the upper roots are covered by about an inch 
of soil. It is very important not to set blueberries 
too deep in the ground, for they may make poor 
growth or die. It is helpful to water the newly 
set plant with a soluble fertilizer, using about 
one quart of solution per plant. Next the soil 
should be firmly packed around the roots and a 
_ mound of soil made around the edge of the hole so 
that the plant can be properly watered during 
dry weather. Rooted cuttings should be grown 
for two or three years in a bed containing lots 
of sawdust plus cottonseed meal and acid fer- 
tilizer. They can be transplanted as desired. 
In commercial plantings blueberries are usual- 
_ ly set 4 ft. apart in the row with 8 to 10 ft. be- 
tween rows. However, in home gardens they may 
| be arranged in any manner and can be pruned to 
| nearly any desired shape. Blueberries are espe- 
| cally suitable for hedge plantings and other orna- 
| mental uses. 
MULCHING: It is very helpful if a heavy mulch 
can be maintained around the plants. Any natur- 
al organic matter is satisfactory. Sawdust—new 
or old, oak or pine—also gives excellent results 
and we strongly recommend its use. However, 
when sawdust is used as a mulch, it is necessary 
to add extra nitrogen to the soil. For each ton 
of sawdust approximately 24 lbs. of actual nitro- 
gen is needed. This can be obtained from 115 lbs. 
of ammonium sulfate or 72 lbs. of ammonium 
nitrate. This corresponds to 13 ounces of ammo- 
nium sulfate per bushel of sawdust or 8 oz. of 
ammonium nitrate per bushel. Any other type 
of fertilizing material could be used if the proper 
amount of nitrogen is provided. 
FERTILIZING: We definitely recommend that 
blueberries should receive regular fertilizer appli- 
cations. Use an acid-type, complete fertilizer ear- 
ly in the spring at the rate of about 14 lb. per 
each small plant or 1% lb. for large plants. An- 
other application in early summer is usually help- 
ful. Do not apply fertilizer in late summer or fall, 
since it may make plants tender and thus subject 
to winter injury. Cottonseed meal, 14 lb. for 
young plants and 1% lb. for old plants, is a com- 
plete organic fertilizer that is ideal for blue- 
berries and most other plants. Ammonium sul- 
fate, 2 oz. per small plant and 14 lb. per large 
plant, is an excellent commercial fertilizer. About 
250 lbs. per acre is recommended for large plant- 
ings. Half should be applied in March or April 
and the rest during May or June. 
PRUNING: When first planted, about half of 
the upper branches should be removed. Then 
during each dormant season further pruning is 
required. Since blueberries usually make too 
much top growth, some of this must be thinned 
out or the fruit will be small. Normally it is best 
to prune out slender twigs, leaving the heavier 
stronger growth. Low branches should be re- 
moved as well as any weak or dead wood. Write 
for Rayner’s Bulletins, 3 and 18 on blueberry 
pruning. 
YELLOW FOLIAGE: Blueberries are especially 
free of disease and insect troubles and thus do 
not generally require any spraying or dusting. 
The most common trouble is a yellow color of the 
leaves (chlorosis). This yellowing can be cor- 
rected in two ways—one is by making the soil 
more acid by addition of vinegar or sulphur, 
and the other is to add iron directly to the plant 
and to the soil. Yellow leaves will often become a 
healthy green color within a few days, after iron 
is added. We recommend iron chelate for this 
purpose. About 1 level tablespoonful in a gallon 
of water can be applied to the leaves and soil 
and will be of much help in improving foliage. 
CROSS-POLLINATION: Since cultivated blue- 
berries are partly self-sterile it is best to plant at 
least two varieties for cross-pollination. Any 
combination of varieties is usually satisfactory. 
BUY RAYNER’S PLANTS AND YOU BUY THE BEST 37 
