HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 



COLD PITS are identical with Coldframes described on preceding page, except that 

 an excavation of from two to four feet is made below the general level of the ground so as 

 to admit of larger plants being placed in them. The sunken pit is a better protection 

 than the coldframe; for, when sunk to the depth of two or three feet and covered with glass, 

 it will resist a much heavier frost than the frames on the surface. Pits are. therefore, to be 

 preferred for protecting all half-hardy bulbs grown in pots, which can be brought out and 

 flowered in the house in the winter, or be carried along until spring and then be planted out 

 in the open border. Cold pits are also excellent, on account of their coolness, for retarding 

 reserves of such bulbs as Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, Freesias, etc., and plants of Carna- 

 tions, Roses, Azaleas, Spiraeas, Camellias, etc., which may be removed to the conservatory 

 or window-garden at pleasure, and where on account of more heat and light they will soon 

 be forced into flower, thus keeping up a fresh supply of bloom throughout the winter and 

 spring months. Care must be taken that both coldframes and cold pits are well drained 

 either from the nature of the soil or otherwise, as water standing in them would be destruc- 

 tive to the plants, whether planted in the soil or grown in pots. 



The Hotbed and Its Uses. 



HOW TO MAKE AND MANAGE. 



For those who have no greenhouse, there is no better way to 'start" seeds and grow 

 seedlings of tender plants for setting out in spring than in a hotbed, which is made exactly 

 as the coldframe described on preceding page, excepting that for a hotbed the soil must be 

 excavated about two feet in depth, the sides of the frame to be boarded to the bottom. 



In this excavation the manure for heating — prepared as below — is to be packed to a 

 depth of from eighteen to twenty-four inches, bearing in mind that the greater depth of 

 manure gives the greater and more lasting heat. For general purposes, a hotbed made 

 in the vicinity of New York, at the beginning of March, manure eighteen inches deep will 

 be sufficient; in a colder section, or earlier in the winter, or for the production of such tender 

 plants as Peppers and Egg -Plants, twenty-four and thirty inches of manure may be required; 

 in the latter case, the excavation above mentioned must be made correspondingly deeper. 



THE PREPARATION OF THE IMANURE: Procure a sufficient quantity of fresh 

 horse manure, and, if possible, add an equal bulk of leaves from the woods, or even tanbark 

 or refuse hops. Mix them thoroughly and tramp down successive layers into a compact 

 conical pile, and leave it there until fermentation has started, which should be in two or 

 three days' time, but will be indicated by the escaping steam. Then turn the pile so the 

 rank steam may escape, forming a similar pile, and let it remain until the 

 second fermentation begins, which should begin in two or three days more. In very cold 

 weather it may be necessary to cover the pile with a few inches of straw or hay, to preA-ent 

 chilling before fermentation sets in, or, better yet, make the pile in a shed. As soon as 

 the manure is ready, place it in the pit and tramp it down in layers to the required depth, 

 then put on the sashes and leave it until the heat generates, which will usually take twenty- 

 four hours; then plunge a thermometer in the manure, and if it is all right it will indicate 

 100 degrees or more. This is still too hot, but in two or three days more it will subside. 

 As soon as the plunged thermometer indicates ninety degrees or less, then put on about 

 six inches of soil, which should be rich, hght and mellow. The beds should now be left 

 with the sashes on for a few days, until the soil has become warmed through and the weed 

 seeds have germinated; then remove the sashes, rake to kill the weeds and level the surface, 

 and all is ready for the sowing of your seeds. After this, daily attention must be given. 

 When mild, air must be given by raising the sashes slightly, especially if the sun is shining, 

 otherwise your plants may be burned up. Toward sunset the sashes must be closed down 

 before cold air begins to chill the tender plants. As a general rule, it will be safe on all 

 pleasant days in March and April to have the sashes, or at least every other one, raised from 

 one to three inches at the top end from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. During cold nights the sashes 

 must be covered with mats, shutters or blankets, which must be removed the following 

 morning. 



Careful attention must be given to watering, which should be increased as the season 

 advances — always use tepid water, put on gently with a fine rose watering pot. It is never 

 safe to let the soil get dry. 



The seeds usually sowm in hotbeds for setting out in the garden, as soon as weather 

 and soil permit are: Early Cabbage and Cauliflower, Egg -Plant, En(Uve, Kohl-Rabi, Leek, 

 Lettuce, Onion, Pepper, Tomato, and any flower seeds which it is desireil to have in bloom 

 extra early, particularly Asters, Balsams, Cannas, Carnations, Cockscomb, Cosmos, Dahlia, 

 Dianthus, Geranium, Heliotrope, Larkspur, Marigold, Moonflower, Nasturtium, Pansy, 

 Phlox, Ricinus, Salvia Stocks, Verbena, Zinnias, etc. 



