HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 19 



The Fall Vegetable Garden. 



WHAT TO GROW FOR SUCCESSION. 



But few amateur gardeners appreciate the fact that a continuous succession of most 

 \egetables may be grown in the garden and thus supply the table until frost. In fact, 

 many summer-sown vegetables yield larger and better products than the spring-sown. 

 In the fall from spring planting we will have abbage, Cauliflower, Celerj-, Potatoes, Squash 

 and Tomatoes, but many of the quick-maturing vegetables shoiild also be enjoyed. We 

 append a list of the kinds with latest dates for sowing in the latitude of New York City. 

 The varieties chosen for late sowings should be "early " sorts because these come to maturity 

 quicker than "late" varieties. 



Successional Sowings may be made up to the dates given: 



Bush Beans Aug. 15th Kohl Rabi July loth 



Beets, early varieties Aug. 1.5th Lettuce Aug. 15th 



Carrots, early varieties Aug. 15th Peas, early varieties Aug. 1st 



Com, Sweet, early varieties. . .July 15th Radish Sept. 15th 



Com Salad Aug. 15th Spinach Sept. 15th 



Cucumber, for pickles July 15th Turnip, early varieties Sept. 15th 



Endive Aug. 1st 



If Com Salad, Lettuce and Spinach be covered lightly with hay or straw just before 

 the first frost they m.ay be gathered in perfection for several weeks later. 



Vegetables for NA/inter Use. 



WHAT AND HOW TO STORE. 



A low temperature, evenly maintained a little above freezing, and a ventilated, slightly 

 moist atmosphere is the de.?ideratum for keeping most vegetables through the winter, 

 thus checking the disorganizing work of over-ripening, fungus, rot and wilting. There are, 

 however, exceptions which are detailed below. Store only sotmd, well-matured specimens. 

 When one has a ventilated cold cellar in the house, the cold-storage problem is simplified, 

 but in many homes the heat from the furnaces renders it impossible to keep vegetables for 

 any length of time. Then outside storage must be resorted to. The simplest outdoor 

 storage is "pitting"' the suitable vegetables. An excavation or excavations are made in 

 the garden a foot or more in depth, and of shape and size proportionate to the quantity 

 of products to be stored. These are piled heaping full, forming a mound or cone over 

 which straw or hay should be placed to a depth of 6 or 8 inches to protect from early frost. 

 Just before freezing nights begin to throw an inch or two of soil over the straw and add a 

 few more inches of soil before winter sets in hard. Vegetables keep splendidly when pro- 

 perlj- pitted, the only objection being thej' are difficult to get at in severe weather; for this 

 reason an outdoor cellar is preferable. The outdoor cellar is made by digging an excavation 

 about 2 feet in depth and of dimensions suited to the requirements and location. The 

 sides of the excavation are kept in place by boards on edge, held in place by stakes; the 

 upper edge of the boards should be a little higher than the level of the ground to permit the 

 laying of boards to form a gable roof, the center resting on a ridge pole, held by posts 

 4 to 5 feet high. The board roof is sufficient protection until severe freezing weather, 

 when hay, straw or leaves are thrown over the roof and a few inches of soil added. A door 

 should be provided at one end, for convenience. On account of the amount of air contained 

 in a cellar of this kind very unifonn conditions are obtained. Not only may the hardy 

 roots be stored in it, but also Celery, Cabbage, Brussels Sprouts, and L*ek plants may be 

 placed upright, roots on the ground, and will keeo in prime condition. 



