32 HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 



H 



oyv to OroNA/ Asters. 



CALLASTEPHUS SINENSIS is the botanical title of the original single-flowered 

 Aster that came from China in 1731. The evolution of Asters since that time has brought 

 forth remarkable variations and improvements, the double forms having become universally- 

 popular garden annuals. 



A prolonged garden display of Asters may be enjoyed by growing the early, medium 

 and late flowering sorts, yet the early flowering Asters axe less desirable than those following. 

 Therefore, for most brilliant garden effects, the medium-late and late flowering sections are 

 usually chosen, and to have a successional display of these, the seeds should be sown at 

 intervals of three or four weeks from February until June. For earliest flowers the seeds 

 and seedlings of the early sorts will require to be sown and grown on under artificial condi- 

 tions until "planting-out time" in May. The sowings of later varieties may be made in 

 the open ground. 



Among the "secrets of success" in raising Asters to perfection, we may mention that 

 the plants should receive no check in their growth, from the seedling stage to bud develop- 

 ment; they are very impatient of violent changes in temperature, and a high temperature 

 is at no time desirable; sixty degrees seems to be the best for highest development. 



The plants should be grown cool, especially when young; bottom heat in germinating 

 Aster seed and growing the seedlings is a mistake. With plenty of air included in a tem- 

 perature limited from 55 to 65 degrees, sturdy healthy seedlings are produced with resultant 

 flowers far larger and finer — other conditions being congenial — than those eventually 

 borne by spindly, heat-grown seedlings. 



Asters, though surface-rooting plants, are almost as gross feeders as Roses, therefore, 

 for best results an abundance of food and moisture must be continuously furnished, a well- 

 enriched loamy soil deeply worked, being essential to induce the roots to go down for their 

 supplies, where the soil temperature and moisture are more equable than on the surface, 

 thereby rendering the plants less susceptible to drought, heat and checks; when the roots 

 are confined to the surface without top dressing they are liable to dry out and the plants 

 to starve. 



SEED SOWING AND SEEDLINGS. When Aster seeds are sown early under 

 glass, shallow boxes (2H to 3 inches deep), pots or earthen seed pans may be used, either 

 of the latter two being preferred on account of watering, which may be done when required 

 by immersing for half an hour the pot or pan nearly to the surface of the soil, this method 

 being preferable to surface sprinklings, reducing any tendency of the seedlings to damp off. 

 The best compost for sowing the seed and growing the seedlings in, is prepared by mixing 

 decayed leaf-mold with enough loamy soil to render it fairly firm, and with a sufficient 

 admixture of sand to facilitate drainage. 



Sow the seed thinly and just cover from sight by sifting over them some of the soil. 

 Give no water unless the soil becomes decidedly dry and then it is better to immerse the 

 seed pan in water than to wet the surface, as previously explained. A sheet of glass laid 

 over the seed pan prevents rapid eA^aporation and hastens germination, but the glass should 

 be removed as soon as the seedlings are above the soil, or it would draw them up slim and 

 spindling, particularly if the temperature is too warm and not sufficient air given. 



The seed pans may be placed in a cool greenhouse, sunny window, coldframe or pit, 

 or spent hotbed, always keeping in mind that an equable temperature of about 60 degrees 

 including air on every suitable occasion produces the best plants. When the seedlings have 

 attained the third leaf, they should be transplanted about an inch apart, with the aid of a 

 sharpened stick about the size of an ordinary pencil, into other seed pans or shallow boxes 

 containing fresh soil of a similar nature to that already advised. This checks the tendency 

 to damp off, so liable to happen when seedlings are crowded too long in their original seed 

 bed, and besides, it gives the individual seedlings room to develop a stocky growth. In a 

 couple of weeks' time, if the seedlings have been grown properly they may be potted off 

 singly into 2 or 2H inch pots and be grown on imtil "setting-out time" in May. 



OPEN-GROUND SOWINGS, of the medium-late and late varieties, may be made 

 at intervals of two to three weeks from early May during June for late-flowering plants. 

 As congenial soil and weather conditions for germinating Aster seeds in the open garden 

 are not always to be secured, we strongly advise that a special seed bed be prepared in a 

 sheltered position. The soil should be rich, finely worked and friable with some wood ashes. 



