HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 39 



INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE WINTER FLOWERING OF HARDY AND HALF- 

 HARDY BULBS. When hardy bulbs are to be grown in pots for winter Vjlooming in the 

 house or conservatory, the bulbs should be potted as soon as they are procurable, between 

 August and November. 



The soil used should be rich loam; no fresh manure can be used, though if thoroughly 

 rotted, some may be pulverized and worked through, but it is safer to use in place pure bone 

 meal, one part to fifty of soil. If the soil is stiff and hea\Ti mix it with sand and leaf-mold 

 or peat. The size of pots required depends upon the kinds of bulbs — a five-inch pot is best 

 for a first-sized named Hj'acinth, large bulbing Narcissus, particularly the Polyanthus type 

 require the same size pot as do similar large bulbs. Tulips, small Narcissus and bulbs of 

 a similar size, while they can go indiA-idually in a four-inch pot, yet it is better to put three 

 or more bulbs of one variety in a larger pot, as the soil retains a more even temperature and 

 moisture; for this reason, some people prefer earthen bulb pans which come in various sizes 

 from eight to eighteen inches in diameter. In potting, place a Uttle broken pottery or lumps 

 of charcoal in the bottom for drainage, then fill the pot with soil and shake it down, but do 

 not pack it, neither must the bulb be pressed or screwed into the soil, which packs the soil 

 under it so when the roots start they often raise the bulb out of the pot. 



The tops of the bulbs (excepting Lilies) are kept about even with the top of the soil. 

 Do not water them unless the soil is very dry, for bulbs in a dormant condition resent an 

 excess of moisture. After the bulbs are potted, they should then be placed in a coldframe 

 or cold pit to root. Cover the pots, boxes or pans with four inches of sand, ashes, rotted 

 leaves, tanbark or similar substance, and do not put the sashes on until freezing weather, 

 and even then remove the sash on pleasant days. Where no coldframes or pits are avail- 

 able, a trench is dug a foot deep in the garden, three inches of coal ashes is first placed in 

 the trench to allow drainage and keep the worms out, the pots are then placed on the 

 ashes, the earth is filled in, working it among the pots, filHng up the trench, rounding over. 

 No further attention is then required; everything is congenial to perfect root development, 

 while it is cool enough above to check top growth. When the weather gets cold enough to 

 freeze a crust on the soil, then an additional covering of about four inches of rough stable 

 manure, leaves or straw is put over. Some early bulbs such as Roman Hyacinths, Paper 

 White Narcissus, Due Van Thol Tulips, etc., will root sufficiently in five or six weeks to be 

 taken up for first flowers, which should be out by Christmas or earlier, but it is safer to allow 

 all bulbs not less than eight weeks for rooting. Every two weeks after the first removal of 

 pots, or as needed, further relays of rooted bulbs may be taken out for a successional display 

 of bloom. 



When the pots of hardy bulbs have been taken up, place them in a cool greenhouse or 

 cool, light storeroom where the temperature is not over fifty degrees, which temperature 

 will allow the flower stems and foliage to grow, and at the same time prevent the opening 

 of the flowers untU the stems have attained their proper height, after which the pots may be 

 taken to a warm sunny window or wherever they are wanted to flower. Bulbs treated in 

 this manner -^ill produce perfect spikes of perfect flowers. A good rule to keep in mind in 

 flowering hardy bulbs is, 40 degrees for root development, then 50 degrees for foliage and 

 stems, then 60 degrees for best flowers, 70 degrees for quick development. 



FLOWERING BULBS IN GLASSES, BOWLS, UNIQUE POTS, ETC.— There are 



several curious and pretty methods of flowering certain bulbs besides in ordinarj^ pots and 

 pans. One of the most successful and interesting are Hyacinth bulbs in glasses of water; 

 use earlj'-flowering single varieties only. Special "Hyacinth Glasses" are procurable for 

 the purpose. These are simply filled with fresh pure water; a lump of charcoal thrown in 

 absorbs impurities, but is not absolutely necessary. The bulb sets in a cup-shaped recep- 

 tacle on top of the glass. In filling, the water should not quite touch the bottom of the 

 bulb. Place in cool, dark, airy place until the roots have reached the bottom of the glass, 

 which should be in about six weeks' time. Do not place them in a close, warm closet, for 

 they must have fresh air. As the water evaporates fill up the glasses and change the water 

 entirely when needed to keep it sweet and clear. After rooting, place the glasses in a light 

 storeroom where the temperature averages about 50 degrees, until the stems and foliage 

 have developed, then remove to a warm sunnj' window for flowers to open. 



The so-called "Chinese Sacred Lily," a variety of Polyanthus Narcissus, grows and 

 flowers luxuriantly in bowls of water, provided they are not placed in a dry furnace-heated 

 room which will cause the buds to blast before opening. A kitchen window where the air 

 is moist often is the result of producing finer flowers than when a window is utilized in a 

 parlor or living-room where the air is dry. 



