HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 



41 



DISBUDDING 

 CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



See directions on preceding page. 



CROy^n BUO 



PROTECTIVE STRUCTURE 



OF COTTON CLOTH. 



Described below. 



refiMiNAi: euo 



SOUTHERN CULTURE. The directions for culture given above refer to plants 

 that are to be growii in boxes or pots for northern indoor culture, but where it is mild enough 

 for Chrj'santhemums to flower in the open garden, they had better be taken from the pots 

 and planted at once in the open border (as soon as the ground is warm enough in spring); 

 but treated by "pinching" and "disbudding" exactly as already described, if fine flowers 

 are an object; if not, they may be left to nature and still make a grand display, if the differ- 

 ent varieties are used. In nearly aU sections south of Baltimore the Chrysanthemum? 

 will perfect their flowers in the open garden and will stand the winter without protection; 

 but verj- few of the finer kinds wiU perfect their flowers or prove hardy north of Baltimore 

 so when grown in pots or boxes the best way to save the plants is, after they are done bloom- 

 ing, to place them in a cool cellar where, if kept dry, they -R-ill keep safely until they can be 

 again gro"mi the next year, 



PROTECTIVE STRUCTURE. A cheap and simple plan now extensively used to 

 protect Chrj-santhemums from the slight frosts that we usually have in the North — which 

 in different sections come from the 20th of October to the 20th of November — is to make 

 a tentlike framework of size desired and cover it with "protecting cloth," a cotton cloth 

 treated with a preparation to prevent milde%ving and rotting. This tent may be (if 10 feet 

 in width) 4 feet high at the front and 7 feet high at the apex, with a walk in the center, 

 the plants to be on either side, either in pots, boxes or growing in the ground. This cloth 

 (1 yatd in width) can be bought of the best heavy grade at 14 cents per j'ard, and a lighter 

 grade at 10 cents per yard in pieces of about 50 j-ards in length. 



CHRYSANTHEMUM CLASSES. There are several classes of Chrj-santhemums. 

 The "Pompone" or "Button" varieties are the onlj' reliably hardy sorts in the Northern 

 States. The "Anemone" is a unique class with a row of petals like a daisj- aroiind a large 

 center. There are also early, medium, late, Chinese and Japanese exhibition, incurv'ed, 

 recurved, etc. 



PROPAGATION. It may be stated that, if Chrj-santhemums are wanted to be 

 propagated in summer, sUps taken any time from May to August will root freely and pro- 

 duce fine flowering plants by November of the same year. 



INSECTS. The most common insect pest is the "black fly" which fastens on the 

 young shoots. This is easily kept in check by a Uberal use of tobacco dust put on the foliage 

 and kept on until the insects disappear. Green fly treat the same as directed for black fly. 

 A. green wonn makes its appearance in the fall and will eat the buds. Hand picking and 

 Paris green are the best remedies. 



MILDEW. Should this appear, evident by a whitish deposit on the leaves and 

 curling of same, dust the affected parts with flowers of sulphur. 



RUST. A fungoid disease which appears on the under side of the foliage. Badly 

 affected leaves and plants should be destroyed. Syringe plants twice or three times a week 

 with a solution of sulphide of potassium, procurable at any drug store, )*i oz, dissolved in 

 e gallon of water until eradicated. 



