42 HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 



Dahlia Culture 



SOIL AND PREPARATION. Dahlias will succeed in any soil which will grow corn 

 or potatoes; but where a choice can be made it is best to select one rather light, well drained 

 and moderately rich. More flowers and better ones will be produced in such a soil than a 

 heavy one with clay bottom; the latter in fact is the most unsuitable for them. Should 

 only such a soil be available let the subsoil be broken up, repeat every two years at least, 

 and add coarse sand or coal ashes to tne top soil to lighten it. Dig or plow to the depth of 

 one foot and follow with rake or harrow to break up and smooth out the soil, a very impor- 

 tant cultural item for all crops. Before digging or plowing put on well rotted barnyard 

 manure two to three inches deep and thoroughly incorporate it with the soil. If that i3 

 not available use Henderson's Garden Fertilizer, which can be put in the place where the 

 Dahlia is to be planted, mixing it thoroughly with the soil, a good handful being sufficient 

 for each. Never dig or plow when the soil is wet. 



SITUATION. This is a matter of prime importance. Dahlias should only be planted 

 in an open situation, away from large trees which would shade them and rob the soil of its 

 fertility, away from the shade of buildings also. While Dahlias will grow and give some 

 blooms under these conditions the results in the open ground, away from shade, are far better. 



FIELD GROWN ROOTS. We recommend the field grown roots in preference to 

 green plants or pot roots, as being much better for general planting and more certain to 

 produce desirable results. Occasionally new varieties can only be obtained in growing 

 plants so that there is no choice left for those who want them. 



PLANTING DISTANCE. The Pompone varieties may be planted two to two and 



one-half feet apart but all the others should be planted three to four feet apart; if room is 

 available put them at the greater distances. 



PLANTING TIME. Around New York Dahlias can be planted about the middle 

 of April in favorable seasons and planting may be continued up to the middle of June or 

 even later. Local conditions of soil and weather, will determine the exact planting time. 

 As a general rule early planting is advisable. 



PLANTING METHOD. The soil being prepared as directed open a space wide 

 enough to receive the root spread out flat, and deep enough to have the crown six inches 

 below the surface. Replace the soil, firm moderately, and the operation is complete. 



STAKING. All things considered it is better to use stakes to support Dahlias and the 

 best time to place them is when the roots are being planted as it is easy to see then where 

 to put the stake. In this connection we would suggest only the use of a neat stake such as 

 we offer for the purpose, green with white tops; the gain in appearance compensates for 

 the difference in cost over many of the home-made stakes used. In tying the stems do not 

 crowd them as it is of the greatest importance to have them separated so that air and sun- 

 light can find their way freely into the centre of the plant. It may be necessary when the 

 plants are very bushy to put lighter stakes, such as the cane stakes we offer, connecting the 

 upright stakes, tying them securely to each, so as to form a sort of lattice to which the outer 

 branches can be fastened. 



Some growers get along without staking the plants by this method: — When the shoot 

 has made two sets of leaves the tip is pinched out, leaving the two sets of leaves but severing 

 the main stem. This causes the development of the branches from the axils of the leaves, 

 making a plant of more bushy habit which ordinarily is self-supporting. This method is 

 not always effective as the plants frequently break in wind storms and even with the weight 

 of bloom they usually have an unkempt appearance; besides the branches droop and the 

 flowers are turned downward so that the plant is not so ornamental nor are the flowers as 

 good. The method just described will suffice for Pompone varieties; but for all others 

 we strongly advise staking. 



TRAINING PLANTS . This is part of the foregoing operation but we make a separate 

 paragraph of it because of its importance. The average root we send out will make several 

 shoots. Allow them to grow until they make the first set of leaves, by that time the strong- 

 est can be selected and the others cut away below the surface. Sometimes two shoots may 

 be allowed to grow but never more; as a rule one shoot is sufficient. Tie the shoot to the 

 stake when about a foot high and do not neglect tying as the plant develops for this is very 

 important. 



PRUNING AND DISBUDDING. Some plants will possibly require pruning out 

 small side branches and superfluous foliage when they are too bushy. Never hesitate to 

 do this as it will help the main flowering stems and result in a better crop of flowers. Dis- 

 budding is also an essential feature of growing the best flowers and should be done. The 

 buds are usually formed in groups of three, the central one should remain, and the two side 

 ones pinched out as soon as they are large enough to be easily removed. The remaining 

 bud as a consequence will make a much finer specimen. 



