HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 43 



OAHLIA CULTURE.— Continued. 



CULTIVATION. This is the most important item in growing Dahlias, By cultiva- 

 tion we mean loosening the surface of the soil regularly; never allow it to become baked. 

 Use the pronged hoe or wheel cultivator freely, going from four to six inches into the ground; 

 close to the plant use a small hand cultivator to loosen the soil, so as to avoid injury to the 

 stem and roots. Keep this up until the plants commence to bloom then only stir the soil 

 to the depth of an inch or two and do it frequently as the surface must never be allowed to 

 become hard if the crop of flowers is to be properly matured. It should be needless to say 

 that no weeds should be allowed to grow at any time. Xo good cultivator will tolerate them 

 an hour longer than is necessary to remove them. 



WATERING. This is a subject which probably gives the average cultivator moie 

 concern than any other; rightly too as it is of prime importance. It is ever a mooted 

 question when and how much water should be given not only to Dahlias but to all growing 

 plants, whether in the fields or in pots. As a general rule Dahlias should not be watered. 

 The soil being prepared as advised herein, and cultivation followed assiduously, enough 

 moisture will be found in the soil by the roots of the plants. Watch them in seasons of 

 protracted drought and if they show unmistakable signs of wanting water give it freely; 

 enough to penetrate a foot below the surface. Superficial waterings are worse than useless 

 for them, and for other crops as well. There is more damage done by such watering than 

 if none was given. The principle of irrigation as carried out in our Western States is a safe 

 guide. Give plenty of water when needed, then let that suffice until needed again when 

 another thorough soaking should be given. As soon as the surface dries after watering 

 stir it up and pulverize the soil; we repeat this as it is of the utmost importance. ^ 



STIMULATING GROWTH. The foregoing instructions being carried out no 



further work is necessary to successful culture. If, however, the grower wants the very 

 best flowers and more of them they can be had by additional effort. Should the plants 

 show signs of exhaustion and the flowers begin to get smaller, as happens frequently at 

 midseason, scatter a handful of our garden fertilizer about each plant and work it into the 

 soil with a small rake or hand cultivator. Give the plants a good watering afterwards to 

 dissolve the fertilizer and thus make it quickly available to the plants. 



KEEPING FLOWERS FRESH. For cut flowers Dahlias should be cut early in the 

 morning as they are then fuller of sap than later in the day when evaporation is more rapid. 

 Strip off a portion of the foliage from the bottom of the stem, six inches or so, and put the 

 bare stems into water as hot as can be borne by the hand. Lea%'e them there until it is 

 cool, then put them into cold water, adding salt at the rate of about a half ounce per quart. 

 Keep the flowers in as cool a place as possible and in the dark. Leave them in it for at 

 least twelve hours before using. Those who have heretofore put them into use quickly 

 after cutting will be delighted and surprised to find how ranch longer the flowers will last 

 if treated as above described. 



INSECTS AND DISEASES. Dahlias are remarkably free from these troubles. 

 They will be occasionally attacked by mildew when their environment is not satisfactory 

 and they have received a setback from some unfavorable condition. A treatment of 

 Copper Solution will usually eradicate this trouble. Apply twice a week for two or three 

 weeks or until the trouble disappears. If they are very badly affected and do not yield to 

 treatment cut them down to within a foot or so'of the ground and get an entirely new growth. 

 Green Fly (Aphis) will sometimes attack the plants if their vitality is lowered from some 

 cause. Thej' are found on the under side of the foliage. A liberal use of tobacco dust, 

 or spraying with tobacco water will soon destroy them. Keep at it while a vestige of them 

 remains. The Aster bug, and Cucumber beetle will attack them also if prevalent in their 

 vicinity, but usuallj' in small numbers so that they can be controlled by hand picking. Watch 

 for cut worms when the shoots are coming from the ground. A liberal sprinkling of air- 

 slacked lime will discourage them. Even if they eat some of the shoots they will develop 

 again from below the surface. 



STORING ROOTS. When frost destroys the foliage the stems should be cut off 

 close to the ground and the roots dug; remove the loose soil and expose them to the sun for 

 a few hours to dry. Store them in a cellar where the temperature is about 55° F. They 

 may be packed in boxes or barrels, but when there is room enough they had better be put 

 on the floor in a pile. Watch them carefully during the winter and if they show signs of 

 shriveling cover them completelj^ with several thicknesses of heavy paper; or a number of 

 newspapers; sprinkle the papers after they are put on the pile. If they show premature 

 growths it is evident that there is too much moisture in the place and means should be taken 

 to reduce it. 



