HENDERSON'S GARDEN GUIDE AND RECORD. 47 



GABDEN CULTURE OF THE ROSE.— Continued. 



CLASSIFICATION. Roses are described in our catalogues under the heads Hardy 

 Hybrid Perpetuals, Hardy Climbing Roses, Hybrid Teas and Tea or Monthly Roses, 



sc that the buyer will be able to distinguish to what class they belong and have them 

 treated accordingly, or order from such classes as are best suited to the district in which 

 they are to be planted. The Teas are all of the tender Monthly class and would not be 

 hardy in any district where the temperature falls lower than 25 degrees below the freezing 

 point. Such Roses, when grown in the Northern States, can be Lifted in October or Novem- 

 ber and placed in pots or boxes, and if given plenty of light, such as being placed in a light 

 sitting-room or in a greenhouse, will bloom throughout the winter. In cases where they 

 are not wanted for \\'inter blooming, we would advise their being lifted up in November, 

 placed in boxes and kept in a cold cellar, giving them one watering when they are placed 

 m the boxes, but no more until they are taken from the cellar and planted in the open 

 ground the next season in May, as already directed. 



DORMANT ROSES. These are usually budded or grafted on brier stocks and sold 

 rvithout any soil on the roots, also before they start to grow. They are exclusively of the 

 Hybrid Perpetual class. They should be planted very early in the spring, usually they are 

 not to be obtained after April 15th. Care should be taken in planting to set them in the 

 ground so that the point where the bud or graft was inserted in the stock is three inches 

 below the surface of the soil. There are likely to be growths from the stock and these should 

 be cut off below the surface as they appear, otherwise the strength will be absorbed by them 

 and the true Rose which was budded or grafted will languish and die. 



WINTER PROTECTION. The :Monthly Roses are only half-hardy, and are there- 

 fore liable to be ^\ inter-killed where the thermometer falls 25 degrees below the freezing 

 point, so that protection is necessary. The best way to do this is to bend the branches 

 do^NTi and fasten them securely within two or three inches of the ground, by tying them 

 to stakes driven in for that purpose, or if close enough they may be tied to each other. 

 Then spread dry leaves or rough litter over them to a depth of say six inches. This should 

 not be done, however, until severe cold weather sets in, so that nearly all the leaves are off 

 the plants, and they are thoroughly ripened, which is usually about December 1st, in this 

 latitude. This covering should not be taken off until all danger of severe frost is over, say 

 about April 1st, in this section. 



SUCCESS depends in a great measure on the care given to the plants after planting. 

 The soil should be stirred frequently with a fork-hoe or hand-cultivator, so as to keep it 

 mellow, as well as to keep down weeds This is particularly necessary during drj' weather, 

 as ground which is frequently cultivated will be found to retain moisture far better than 

 if it is allowed to become baked into a hard crus*, in addition to this it uiduces a develop- 

 ment of young roots close to the surface. Care must be taken, however, not to hoe too deeply 

 so as to injure the young roots. Another important point is to cut off all the flowers which 

 are past their prime, as not only are they unsightly, but they tend to weaken the plant by 

 forming seedpods; by removing them the strength which would otherwise be wasted 

 goes to form new growth, thus increasing the number of blooms. 



INSECTS, ETC., MOST TROUBLESOME to ROSES. 



GREEN FLY (Aphis). Colonies of these congregate on the young growth and suck 

 thfc juices of the plant. Si>ray with some tobacco solution or dust the plant with tobaccc 

 powder, after first wetting them so the powder will adhere. 



ROSE SLUG. A light green worm that eats the leaves. Apply whale-oil soap, 1 

 pound dissolved in 8 gallons of water; or Paris green, 1 ounce to 10 gallons of water. 



ROSE BUG. A brownish hardshell beetle that eats the leaves and blossoms. A 

 difficult insect to combat. Hand-pick or knock off on a sheet in early morning. The 

 larva (prub) of the Rose Bug is destructive to the roots of roses which it infests. 



MILDEW. This grayish-white film on the affected foliage can be held in check by 

 dusting the plants with flowers of sulphur or syringing with Bordeaux Mixture, 1 pint in 6 

 to 8 gallons of water. 



