CULTURE DIRECTIONS— (Continued) 



such as Blakemore, Dorsett and Fairmore. 



The well spaced row will produce more and 

 hotter fruit. 



Removing Blossoms — Flower steins usually 

 appear on strawberry plants soon after they 

 are sot in the field and as the production of 

 fruit is a severe drain on their vitality, the 

 ilower stems should he removed as they ap- 

 pear. With the Everbearers tin 1 hlossoms 

 should he removed until the plants are well 

 established : this will usually require about 

 sixty days. 



Fertilizer and Manure — Well rotted stable 

 manure, compost or similar materials are very 

 good for strawberries, this may be applied 

 just before soil is prepared or if used on pre- 

 ceding crop results are practically as good. 

 Commercial fertilizers give good results and 

 are used by practically all the large growers, 

 ('are must be taken in applying, to avoid in- 

 jury when applied before planting, work in 

 thoroughly and wait at least a week before 

 setting. In top dressing apply evenly and 

 brush off any that may be on leaves. Do not 

 apply more than 700 lbs. per acre per appli- 

 cation. Mixtures containing Nitrate of Soda, 

 Sulphate of Ammonia or potash salts, must 

 be applied very carefully as these materials 

 will injure plants and often kill them outright 

 if in direct contact with the roots. Straw- 

 berries require very little potash thus this 

 element may be omitted or used sparingly. 

 Chicken manure mixed two parts manure to 

 one part 16% superphosphate makes a satis- 

 factory material but should be applied care- 

 fully to avoid injury. Top dressing in late 



summer will usually increase size and yield 

 especially on thin soils. 000 to 800 lbs. per 

 acre of a commercial 5-10-4 mixture usually 

 gives good results. 



Mating Varieties— All the varieties we offer 

 are perfect flowering and will produce a full 

 crop when planted alone. 



Mulching— Mulch should be applied at the 

 rate of about three ton per acre, just before 

 the first hard freeze, if possible. Straw. 

 strawy stable manure, wild hay, marsh .mass 

 are materials commonly used. Mulching will 

 prevent winter injury and heaving of the 

 plants from freezing and thawing. In the 

 spring as growth starts rake mulch into the 

 alleys where it helps to keep the berries clean 

 and also conserve moisture. 



Spraying and Dusting — As strawberries are 

 seldom subject to any serious damage from 

 disease or insects, spraying or dusting are 

 not commonly practiced. Setting healthy 

 plants of varieties immune or resistant to 

 disease is much more desirable. In sections 

 where the Weevil (Clipper) prevail they can 

 be controlled by dusting the beds just before 

 the first buds appear, and again about 10 days 

 later with a mixture of 85% Sulphur and 15% 

 Arsenate of Lead. 



Summer and Early Fall Planting — There 

 are two reasons why Summer and Early Fall 

 planting is seldom successful ; first, it is al- 

 most impossible to get good plants and second ; 

 even if you get good plants they seldom, if 

 ever, give as good results as plants set in the 

 early spring. Don't put off your planting un- 

 til Fall. If you do you are almost sure to be 

 disappointed. 



DIGGING 

 BLAKEMORE 



Note long, fiberous 

 roots. Highest qual- 

 ity plants. 



RAYNER'S PLANTS ALWAYS DO FINE 



Lancaster Co., Pa., May 11th, 1042 

 Received our strawberry plants about 

 April 15th, they had very nice roots. I 

 don't think there is any plants failing, we 

 have been getting our plants from you for 

 several years and they are always fine. 

 Yours truly, 

 Clayton O. Martin 



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