CULTIVATION OF BEARDED IRISES 



I, 



-T SHOULD be unnecessary to point out 

 what must by now be generally an ac- 

 cepted fact, namely, that these Irises are 

 essentially sun-lovers. Furthermore, that 

 they should be planted in positions where 

 good drainage exists, and should not be 

 expected to give the best flowering results 

 when placed in dense herbaceous borders 

 where the sun can seldom penetrate to 

 the rhizomes. If they can be grown in a 

 sunny border by themselves so much the 

 better; if not, then let them at least have 

 a position in the front of the herbaceous 

 border. They are not particular as to soil, 

 and are far better not top-dressed with 

 patent manures, bone-meal, etc. The use 

 of lime is often quoted as being essential, 

 and is often very much overdone in con- 

 sequence. 



I have always found that a dressing 

 of ground limestone dug into the Iris bor- 

 der at the first planting supplies all that 

 is needed in this respect, and is, more- 

 over, practically everlasting, in that it 

 dissolves very slowly indeed, and there- 

 fore cannot be given in excess. 



Another important factor in the cultiva- 

 tion of these Irises is the transplanting. 

 Opinions vary as to the best time for this 

 operation, but I am inclined to think, after 

 trying all times, that it makes little differ- 

 ence to the next year's blooming when- 

 ever it is done, provided that the ground 

 is in good order for the work, and that it 

 is not left until too late in the autumn. 



Late-planted Irises seldom get a hold 

 before the real winter sets in and are, in 

 consequence, often "heaved" out of the 

 soil by frosts, and make a poor show the 

 following summer. There is no rule for 

 dividing and transplanting Irises, such as 

 "every third year," as is often stated. 



The condition of the plant must decide 

 this. Some of the more rampant growers 

 should be divided and transplanted every 

 other year, and if this is done it will be 

 found that they rarely suffer from rhizome 

 rot. The vigorous growers, if allowed to 

 remain undisturbed for a period as long as 

 three years, make such a dense clump 

 that the sunlight cannot penetrate, with 

 the result that not only do they bloom 

 sparsely, but often they are attacked by 

 disease in the form of rhizome rot. This 

 is particularly so in the case of Irises of 

 the "Dominion" race. 



A liberal use of superphosphate of lime, 

 which can be incorporated in the soil 



By G. L. PILKINGTON, 

 Hon. Secretary of the Iris Society 

 of England. 



whilst replanting the divisions, does much 

 to ward off the attacks of this disease. 

 "Doubtful" rhizomes of varieties which are 

 too valuable to throw away should have 

 all the soil removed from them, be dipped 

 in a mauve solution of permanganate of 

 potash, and then left in a dry, airy place 

 for a month or six weeks before trans- 

 planting. 



If they are going to rot they will do so 

 in spits of all these precautions. If they 

 survive they can be replanted with every 

 prospect of success. 



Owing to the vagaries sf our weather 

 I frequently have Irises on my hands 

 waiting for suitable weather and soil con- 

 ditions to replant them for a month or 

 more at a time, and though the rhizomes 

 dry up entirely and the leaves die down 

 considerably I have never found that the 



plant suffers in the least. Root-action goes 

 on whilst the rhizome is in a dry state, 

 and the plant goes ahead very quickly as 

 soon as it is replanted. I would far rather 

 adopt this principle than "heel in" the 

 plants pending replanting, which gener- 

 ally results in the breaking off of new 

 fibrous roots which the plant has mode 

 during the period of waiting. 



One other point about planting. The 

 rhizomes should not be planted deep, but 

 should be placed just below the level of 

 the soil surface and the roots spread out 

 to insure firm planting and room for ex- 

 pansion. The rhizome will soon work to 

 the surface again, but if planted on the 

 surface in the first instance it Is not so 

 easy to get the plant firm in the ground, 

 which is essential. 



— "Gardening Illustrated." 



ABOUT IRIS BORERS 



The two main pests of German Iris ore borer and rot, the rot usually getting 

 in after borers hove injured the roots. Borers hatch from eggs laid by a 

 little moth on the leaves. The tiny borer bores into the leaf near the top and 

 eats its way leisurely downward until it is fully grown by the time it reaches 

 the rhizome. If you watch for it, you can head it off by squeezing or cutting 

 off and destroying the leaf. 



CULTURE OF ORIENTAL POPPIES 



There is nothing more brilliantly attractive — more strikingly noticeable 

 in any garden — than a clump of Oriental Poppies. 



Many times I had bought plants, only to hove them die, and many times 

 I had planted seed — but with very little success — simply because I did not 

 know how to care for them. Finally I bought plants in the dormant season 

 and set them out. After becoming established in their new home they made 

 wonderful growth in the Fall. 



Oriental Poppies are quite hardy, and stay green most of the winter 

 under a light covering, which they should hove. When spring comes the 

 plants make rapid growth and very soon big fat buds appear. In a few 

 days, these buds burst into a radiant brilliance, to my joy and satisfaction. 



Do not buy Poppies in the spring and expect them to do their best. Buy 

 them in their dormant season, in August or early September- — carefully 

 plant them — let them get their roots firmly established — the little feeding 

 roots active and ready for quick work in the spring, and you will have glo- 

 rious Poppies in your garden, and a thrilling satisfaction in your heart. — 

 From "The Flower Grower." 



See Oriental Poppy Section, pages 44-45-46. 



