I'KTKR HENDERSOxVl & CO.", NEW YORK.— BULBS FOR AUTUMN PLANTING. 



^^ INSTRUCTIONS .^l^^yiT^H-^H^'"^ ^^ • *? ^ 



FOR 



HARDY BULBS 



IN 



OPEN GROUND. 



-^»^^5S>^ 





The Koll formost hardy bulbs should be sandy lomii. If it is stiff clay mix in 

 sand and K-af mold. The texture of the soil should be such that it will not 

 retain ata;rnfint watt-r. Well-rotted stable manure should be duj? in deeply und 

 shuuld bi- jthiued where the loiitc feedintr roots can pet at it and yet not oonie in 

 » ontact with the bulbs. Thi« is easily accomplished, and pays for the extra 

 tiouble if six inches of the top soil is first removed. Then apply the manure and 

 rhff it in thorotJghly ; level off ; then put on an inch of wind ; set the bulbs on it ; 

 then replace the top soil. Ittilbs planted in this manner can be i>laeed in their 

 ixaet positions, and beinfr of an even depth will Mower more uniformly. The 

 .-ind allows the water to drain away from the bulbs, an advantitf^e in desi(;;n 

 bedding, and prevents manure from touching them, either of which may cause 

 durmant bulbs to decay. 



Where it is impracticable to prepare the beds as just advised then it is safer 

 to use bone meal in place of stable manure. Most bulbs like rich food if properly 

 iipplied, and although their (lowers were formed the previous sciison, yet their 

 development, size, luxuriance and brilliancy this season depend largely upon the 

 nutrition the roots are consuming. Liberal applications of manure water when 

 the bulbs are in bud of ten produce magnitlcent results. 



The proper depth to pi u lit bulbii: it is a common fault to plant too shallow. 

 Hardy bulbs throw out their roots during the fall and early winter, and if 

 planted too near the surface the freezing, thawing and heaving of the upper 

 crust of the soil in mild winters often cause the bulbs to break from their 



roots and produce only inferior flowers in consequence. Lilies should bo 

 planted 8 to 12 inches deep ; Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and similar large bulbs 

 from J to 6 inches deep ; Crocus, Scillas and similar bulbs 3 to * inches deep. 

 When the weather is cold enough to freeze a crust on the soil then cover the 

 beds with leaves, straw or marsh hay to a depth of from 4 to 6 inches. This pro- 

 tects not only from severe freezing, but from equally injurious unseasonable 

 thaws. Do not put this covering on too early, for the warmth might cause the 

 leaves and flowers in the bulbs to start, and afterward to be Injured from freez- 

 ing. Remove the covering in the spring gradually. 



The proper time to plant hurdy bulbn in the open ground is from 4 to 6 

 weeks before regular freezing nights, cool weather being necessary to deter top 

 growth, which is liable to start after* to 6 weeks of root development. This 

 brings the planting season for such hardy bulbs as Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus, 

 etc., in September in latitude of Maine, Ontario, Wisconsin, etc. ; in latitude of 

 New Jei-sey, Pennsylvania, Ohio, etc., plant in October ; in latitude of Virginia, 

 Kentucky, Missouri, etc., November is early enough. South of that do not 

 plant before December, unless j'ou wish to risk the occasional freezing weather 

 in January and Febriiarj-, which usually catches early-planted bulbs in full 

 wealth of, foliage and bud, destroying them, though in this section very early- 

 flowering bulbs, such as Koman Hyacinths, Due Van Thol Tulips, Paper White 

 Narcissus, etc., if planted in September, will usually be through flowering before 

 freezing weather. 



/^ULTURAL 



^ INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR 



Winter=flowering 

 Bulbs. 



One of the most Important essentials — we might say the neorct of RuoeeHS 

 in flowering bulbs in the house or greenhouse — is perfect root development 

 titfore the tops oonunenrc to trrow. To aid the uniiiiliated in this important 

 mailer, we will ilhistntle : When hardy bulbs are planted in tlie ojieii (ground in 

 Northern States, by the time tlie bulbs show signs of ^:ro\Mh th.- \s eather above 

 Ihetii is cool or cold, the ground beneath them is \\nrnier, the conditions arc 

 coritreniaJ tor root action and deterrent to top trrowth. results perfection in 

 development of such flowers as the bulbs contained. A bulb does not seem to 

 care which end starts into growth llrst. and when it is not under natunil condi- 

 tions it usimlly chooses the wrong end, the top, so when we grow them under 

 artificial conditions, to be succesi*tul, we must overcome their unfortunate ten- 

 dency and make them produce roots first. The failures to do this are responsible 

 for nino-tonths of the disappointments. 



Whco hordy bulbrt arc to be ^rown In pot** or winter bloomliiiE: the 



bulbs should be potted as soon as they are procurable, between August and 

 November. 



The soil used should be rich loam ; no fresh manure can be used, though if 

 thoroughly rotted, some may be iiuherized and worked through, but it is sjifer 

 to Qse In place pure bone meal, one part to flftv of soil. If the soil is stiff and 

 heavy nux it with sand and leaf mold or peat. The size of pots re(iuireddei>ends 

 upon the kindu of bulb?*. A five-inch pot Is best for a llrst sized named Hyacinth. 

 Simibir lar;:e bulbs re'iuire the sjune i^ize jmt. Tulips and bulbs of a similar size, 

 while thev can go individually in a four-inch pot,^'et it is better to put three or 

 more bulb^ of one variety in a larger pot, as the soil retains a more even tem- 

 perature and moisture. For this reason some people prefer earthen bulb i)ans, 

 which come in various sizes, from eight to eighteen inches in diameter. In pot- 

 ting, place a little broken pottery or lumps of charcoal in the bottom for dniin- 

 age. then till the pot with soil and shake it down, but do not pack it ; neither 

 must tlul'ulbbe i»re>>ed or screwed into the soil, which packs the soil under it 

 so when the r.tot.s -iturt they often raise the bulb out of the pot. 



Where more than one bulb is planted In the same pot. pan or box, if they are 

 not all of one variety, care shotild be u.-^ed in selecting different varieties that 

 will flower at the same time. An early-Ilowering Due Van Thol Tulip and a 

 double Tonrnesol would flower a ntontn apart under sjime 'reatineut. Some 

 varieties of Hyacinths, Narcissus and varieties of must species of bulbs varj* 

 greatly in time of blooming, which, of course, would spoil the effect. 



The to|w of the bulbs (executing Lili4'S) are kept about even with the top of 

 the soil. l>o not waler them uiiiiss the soil is ver>' dry. for bulbs In a dormant 

 condition resent an excess of nn)islure. .\fter the bulbs are potted, as de- 

 st'ribe*!. they should then be placed in a cold frame or cold pit to root. This is 

 the mo.wt important detail in flowering bulbs under axtiflcial conditions. Cover 

 the iMits, boxes or \mns with four inches of siind, ashes, rotted leaves, tjinbark or 

 similiu' substance, and do not put the sushes on until freezing weather, and even 

 then remove the Sitsh on pleasjint days. Where no cold frames or pits are avail- 

 able, the pots may be covered as advised in a cool cellar ; ft is preferable. Ifow- 

 ever, to sink them right out in the open ground. The writer never has finer 

 (lowers on hardy bulhs than when treated thus : A trench is dutc a foot deep in 

 the garden where water will not settle on it and it is protected from the north 

 and \Msl cold. Three Inches. of coal ashes is first placed in the trench to allow 

 ' and keep the worms out. The pots are then p 



rain age 



placed on the asnes the 



earth is filled in, working it among the pots, filling up the trench, rounding" 

 over. No further attention is then required. Everything is congenial to perfect 

 root development, while it is cool enough above to cheek top growth. When the 

 weather gets cohl enough to freeze a crust on the soil then an additional cover- 

 ing of about four inches of rough stable manure, leaves or straw is put over. 

 Some earlv bulbs, such as Roman Hvacinths. Paper White Narcissus, Due Van 

 Thol Tulips, etc., will root sullieiently in five or .six weeks to be taken up for first 

 flowers, which shouhl be out by Christmas or earlier, but it is sjifer to allow all 

 bulbs not less than eik'ht weeks for rooting. Every two weeks after the first 

 removal of pots, or its needed, further relays of rooted bulbs may be tuJcen out 

 for a continuous-display of bloom. 



When the potf* oi' hurdy bulbn huvc been tukcn up place them in a cool 

 greenhouse or cool, light storei-oom where not over fifty degi-ees, which tempera- 

 ture will allow the Ilower stems and foliage to grow, and at the same time 

 prevent tlie opening of the flowers until the stems have attained their proper 

 neight. after which the pots may be taken to a sunny warm window or wherever 

 they are wanted to flower. Bulbs treated in this manner will produce perfect 

 spikes of perfect flowers, A good rule to keep in mind in flowering hardy bulbs 

 is 40 degrees for roots, 50 degrees for foliage and stems, t'A) degrees for best 

 flowers, 70 degrees for quick development, 80 degrees to rush bloom with loss ot 

 substance and risk of k'oing blind. 



The exceptions to the above advice are Liliums and Lily of the Valley. 

 Lllium Harrisi and Lilinm Longitlorum bulbs particularly, in addition to throw- 

 ing out roots from the base of the bulb.s usually form roots from the new stem 

 just above the bulb, and the plants and flowers <ierive much strength from theso 

 top roots. So, in potting Lily bulbs, it is be.-^t to put them down deep enough, so 

 there will be sufllcient soil alwve the bulbs to entice and sustain the stem rootj}. 

 In other respects treat the bulbs after potting as advised above. 



WIntcr-flowcrlnic Lily of the Vullcy forms no new roots, but the thick, 

 fleshy, flbrous old roots should be trimmed at the bottom, leaving them from two 

 to three inches long. This allows them to absorb the abundant moisture with 

 which they should be supplied while the flowers and foliage are developing. 

 They flower just its well in sand or moss or anvt hint? that retains an even moisture 

 an<l temperature, as they do in soil, but Lily of the Valley, for flowering in the 

 house orgreeidiouse. does require fnrzinu before it can be successfullv brought 

 into flower. Without it, many pjfts will "come blind' or produce inalformed 

 spikes, so it is just as well for amateurs to plant their pips an inch or two apart 

 in pots or Lilv pans and plunge them in the garden, as recommended above for 

 other hardy bulbs. 



Ilull'-llurdy Rulbn I'orlVlntcr Flowerhijr and Forclnir should be treated 

 the same as lyirdy bulbs, excepting that after potting.thev should be placed for 

 rooting where they will not freeze, yet they can go pretty close to ft and be all 

 the better for it. In Northern States a cold frame or pit or cold greenhouse to 

 root them in Is, therefore. Hlmo.«t indispensable. 



The Culture oT Tender Winter und Summer Flowering Rulb« differs 

 from that of hardy ami half-hard>- sorts in its belntr neces,>^jirv to alwiiv!< kiep 

 the bulbs of tender sorts, whether dormant or jcrov ,ng. in a wann situation. 

 Seventy degrees is about as low a tennH-rature aw anv of them will grow in, and 

 if 80 degrees or over they usually give better results. 



