D. M. FERRY & CO'S DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE. 



If necessary, the turning ground at both ends may be filled with Winter Squashes, as these are planted so late and at such 

 a distance apart that they would not seriously hinder the turning of a steady horse with a careful driver. "Whatever the 

 arrangement followed may be, we earnestly urge that every effort be made to secure straight and perfect rows. There is, 

 perhaps, no one thing that will make the subsequent cultivation easier, or contribute more to the owner's satisfaction in his 

 garden than this, and a little extra effort in this respect at the first will give pleasure all through the season. 



EAST. 



Asparagus. 



Rhubarb. 



Artichoke. 



Parsnip. 



Salsify. 



Cucumbers, followed by Fall Spinage. 



Peas. 



Early Potatoes or Peas, followed by Celery. 



Early Cabbage and Cauliflower. 



Beets. 



Turnips. 



Lettuce, early and late. 



Winter Radish. 



Endive. Parsley 



Onions, with early Radish, sown in row. 



BushBeans. 



Late Cabbage. 



Early Corn and Summer Squash. 



Late Corn. 



Tomatoes and Pole Beans. 



Musk and Water Melon. 



Winter Squash. 



WEST. 



SOWING THE SEED.— There is no more prolific source of disappointment and failure among amateur gardeners 

 than hasty, careless or improper sowing of the seed. A seed consists of a minute plant minus the roots; with a sufficient 

 amount of food stowed in or around it to sustain it until it can expand its leaves, form roots and provide for itself, the whole 

 enclosed in a hard and more or less impervious shell. To secure germination, moisture, heat and a certain amount of air are 

 necessary. The first steps are the softening of the hard, outer shell, the developing of the leaves of the plant from the 

 absorption of water, and the changing of the plant food from the form of starch to that of sugar. In the first condition ^he 

 food was easily prese ved unchanged, but the plant with its undeveloped leaves and no root was incapable of using it, wnile 

 in its sugary condition it is easily appropriated; but if not used it speedily decays itself and induces decay in the plant. A 

 seed then may retain its vitality and remain unchanged for years, while after germination has commenced, a check of a day 

 or two in the process may be fatal. There is no time from that when the seed falls from the parent plant until it in turn 

 produces seed, ripens and dies, when the plant is so susceptible of fatal injury from the overabundance or want of heat and 

 moisture, as at that between the commencement of germination and the formation of the first true leaves, and it is just then 

 that it needs the aid of a gardener to secure favorable conditions. These are: — 



First. — A proper and constant degree of moisture without being soaked with water. This is secured by making the 

 surface of freshly dug soil so fine that the smallest seeds may come in immediate contact on all sides with the particles from 

 which they are to absorb the required moisture and the pressing of the soil over the seeds so firmly with the feet or the back 

 of the hoe that the degree of moisture may remain as nearly as possible the same until the plants are up. 



Second.— A proper degree of heat, secured by sowing each variety of seed when the average temperature of the locality 

 is that most favorable for its germination. This may be learned from a careful study of the following pages and the experi- 

 ence of the most successful gardener<= of your vicinity. 



Third.— Covering the seed to such a depth that while it is preserved at a uniform degree of heat and moisture, the 

 necessary air can readily reach it, and the tiny stem push the forming leaves into the light and air. This depth will vary 

 with different seeds and conditions of the soil, and can be learned only from practical experience. In general, seeds of the 

 size of the Turnip should be covered with half an inch of earth pressed down, while Corn may be an inch, Beans two or three 

 and Peas two to six inches deep. 



Fourth.— Such condition of soil that the ascending stem can easily penetrate it. and the young roots speedily find suitable 

 food. We can usually secure this by thorough preparation of the ground, and taking care never to sow fine set ds iclit'>i the 

 ground is wet. Occasionally a heavy or long continued rain followed by a bright sun will so bake and crust the surface that 

 it is impossible for the young plant to find its way through it. or a few" days of strong wind will so dry the surface that no 

 seed can germinate. In such cases our only remedy is to plant again. 



CULTIVATION.— Every weed should be removed as soon as it appears, especially while the plants are young: this will 

 require almost daily attention, but if well done early in the season the later work will be light, but mere destruction of weeds 

 is by no means the only object of cultivation. A. J. Downing, who was perhaps the best horticulturist America has known, 

 said: ''If I were to preach asermon on horticulture. 1 should take as my text. ■ Stir the Soil." " and certainly the text would 

 contain much of the gospel of successful gardening: frequent and deep Stirring will enable one to grow fine vegetables ou 

 comparatively poor and slightly manured soil, while without it one fails to gain much advantage from the richest and finest 

 soil. Care should be taken that the cultivation is not done when the soil is wet. or Teas. Beans and Melons stirred when the 

 leaves are wet with dew, as such disturbance is liable to injure the leaves, and make them susceptible to injury from rust. 

 With this exception, cultivate as often and as thoroughly as possible. 



