THE W. F. ALLEN CO., SALISBURY, MD. 7 



We cannot emphasize too strongly the importance of 

 planting early. In this section the last two weeks in 

 March are the ideal planting days. We cannot get our 

 entire plantings out during those two weeks, but the 

 ones we do get out then always start quicker, grow 

 better and make better beds than those planted later 

 unless conditions are very favorable. 



We have just sold one northern customer 250,000 

 plants for shipment the last of March. He has over 50 

 acres of the same varieties he is buying — but says it 

 pays him to get our plants and get them earlier than he 

 could dig from his own beds or get them from north- 

 ern nurserymen. 



Setting the Plants. Just before planting, the ground 

 should be harrowed and made as level as possible. Then 

 mark out the rows and you are ready to plant. There 

 are a number of different methods of planting but 

 an ordinary garden trowel or a flat dibble are the best 

 tools to use. Whatever tool is used try to have the 

 roots of the plant spread out fan-shaped and be sure 

 to have the crown just at the surface of the ground — 

 not below nor above. 



In some sections where large acreages are planted, a 

 small three furrowed list or row is run up with a plow 

 and then leveled off with a rake or drag. This gives a 

 niee soft planting bed, but unless the ground is quite 

 moist the rows should be run up two or three days be- 

 fore planting to allow the moisture to rise, and then 

 rake off just before planting. Plowing, harrowing thor- 

 oughly, and marking off rows is the best for small fields 

 and gardens. It is best for larger fields unless the 

 grower is familiar with other methods that have worked 

 well under his conditions. 



Methods of Training. The matted row, hill, and 

 hedge row systems are most commonly used. We ad- 

 vise the hill and hedge row methods only for those who 

 have used them and found them satisfactory or for 

 those who know of others nearby who have used those 

 methods successfully. They require more time, trouble, 

 and expense. It is claimed for them that they make a 

 larger yield of fine berries. 



We prefer the matted row both for garden and for 

 field culture. The extra foliage protects the fruit from 

 scalding, makes them less sandy after a rain, and 

 with us the yield of large, well-shaped berries is usually 

 greater than with any other system. It is not so im- 

 portant to keep the row narrow, especially if the ground 

 contains plenty of moisture. Varieties with large plants 

 like Big Joe, Ekey, Chesapeake, Wm. Belt, Early Jersey 

 Giant, Paul Jones, etc., rarely get either too wide or too 

 thick. Very vigorous growing varieties that have small 

 plants as, Senator Dunlap, McAlpin, Wartleld, etc., on 

 rich ground will set too thickly for fruiting purposes if 

 not kept thinned. 



Probably 90% of all the strawberries grown in this 

 country are grown in matted rows. Under average 

 conditions and especially with present labor shortage 

 we would not want to use any other system. 



Cultivation. Young plants should be cultivated fre- 

 quently after they begin to grow. This is done not only 

 to keep down weeds and grass, but also to -,ave more 

 moisture. After heavy rains the soil will become hard 

 and "bake." causing it to dry out quickly and be very 

 cloddy when cultivated, unless the cultivation is done 

 while soil is still damp. So it is best to cultivate as 

 soon after a rain as condition of the soil will permit. 



