|i9l59^^£biAGEEGuiDE,To Rose Culture .^Pls.sp 



How to Grow Roses 



Viburnum plicatum growing on the lawn at 

 Charles Dingee's, see page 101 



PREPARATION OF THE SOIL. Should the soil you have at disposal be naturally poor, it may 

 be made fertile bv substituting a quantity of loam, which can be readily obtained from the sod by 

 the roadside or from the fields. To still further enrich the soil, where it is accessible, add to each 

 wheelbarrow-load of loam about one-third of its bulk of well-rotted stable manure: also some sand, 

 if there be a lack of this constituent; or use fine, 

 well-decomposed stable manure, which is the 

 best fertilizer for general purposes. If this can- 

 not be obtained, fine ground bone or commercial 

 fertilizers may be employed, but if used too freely 

 they are likely to injure the piants. Xone but 

 such fertilizers as are free from acids should be 

 used. Manure applied in the fall will serve as a 

 partial protection over winter, and in the spring 

 it will be beneficial as a mulch. An excellent 

 plant-food, which may be used at all times with 

 entire safety, is Bonora, offered elsewhere in 

 this book. 



Having prepared the grounrl, set the plants 

 about 12 to 18 inches apart. Do not hesitate 

 to place the roots well below the surface of the 

 soil, arranging them as far as possible in their 

 natural position. Cover the roots, pressing firmly 

 down upon them and in around the stem. After 

 planting, water freely, and if the sun be .strong, 

 protect them for a few days with a covering of 

 newspapers or other suitable material. Cut off 

 all withered wood and foliage. Water judiciou.sly 

 — that is, not too freely — and daily, until they 

 show signs of ha\'ing become established. Do not plant if the ground is wet, as the soil will become 

 baked, and thus endanger the safety of the plants. During the presence of protracted drought, the 

 plants should be watered daily in the evenings. 



UNPACKING PLANTS. ^Mien the plants are received, if, for any reason it is desired to defer 

 immediate planting, place the plants in the cellar or any moderately warm place, protect from the 

 sun, set them upright, admitting the free circulation of air, and water freely from time to time. 

 A slight covering of soil around the roots will be beneficial. Soak l^e roots in lukewarm water or thin 

 mud for an hour or so before planting, to restore their \dtality. 



PLANTING. The proper time for planting in the various sections of the country largely depends 

 first, upon the location, and, second, upon the character of the plant. In the warm climate of the 

 Pacific coa.st, southern and southwestern states, in fact, all .sections where frosts are infrequent and 

 the winters mild, pot-grown as well as dormant Ro.ses may be planted in the late fall, as well as in 

 the early spring. In the southern .states fall planting of both these classes of Ro.ses is considered 

 desirable, but, if the conditions are .such that it cannot be accompli.shed then, in the early spring months 

 they may be set out with entire safety. 



As to where the preference lies between plants that are pot-grown under glass, and dormant,, 

 field-grown plants, it is not easy to discriminate. Our own experience has been that in the southern 

 and southwestern .states, as well as on the Pacific coast, the planting of the one-year-old Ro.ses during 

 the months of February', March and April, according to the location, may be accomplished with splen- 

 did satisfaction. In the states north of Virginia, and even in the greater portion of Virginia, and 

 throughout the middle section of the country, as well as in the states in the northwest, the best time 

 to plant is during the spring or early summer months. In many of the moderately cold states dor- 

 mant Roses may be set out with safety during the fall months, but in the section of which we have 

 latterly spoken, dormant Roses — and when we say "dormant" we mean Roses that have been lifted 

 from the field, which, when sent out, have neither foliage nor soil around the roots — may be planted 

 in early spring, just as .soon as the ground can be dug. 



Everyi:hing considered, however, our pot-grown Roses are the most satisfactory' of all. They are 

 invariably on their own roots, and, when sent out, they have the advantage of being equipped with 

 strong, fibrous, active roots, which take hold and establish them.selves in their new homes almost 

 immediately. They should be set out during the spring or early summer months, after all danger of 

 fro.st is past, or, to quote a homely expression, after corn-planting time. For planting in the open groimd 

 ordinary garden .soil will suffice. Select, if possible, the mo.st sheltered and sunny location for planting; 

 avoid ^he close proximity of large trees, who.se den.se foliage and extending roots absorb all the life 

 and bi^staining nutrition of the soil; young trees and dwarf shrubbery will not be hurtful. 



PRUNING. All Ro.ses are helped by pruning. Roses of the tj-pe of Harrison's Yellow, Soleil 

 d'Or, Sir Thomas Lipton, Rugosas, — in fact, all Ro.ses of this extremely hardy class, — are benefited 

 very inuch by pruning, more so than any other cla.ss. From our own experience, we find that the 

 Hybrid Perpetuals in many varieties, such as Mad. Mas.son, Mad. Charles Wood. General Jacquemi- 

 not, and others of this type, frequently bloom two and three times during the season when the flowers. 



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